For accuracy, speed and ease, there is no better way of boring a hole in wood, where the equipment is limited, than by using the lathe.

To bore a mallet head, (a) start the hole at the bench so as to center the drill; the point of the dead center takes care of the other end. Having located the correct distance the tailstock should be from the drill, to allow for the size of the wood, (b) fasten the tailstock firmly, but leave the spindle free. Working at a medium speed, (c) force the wood against the drill by turning on the hand-wheel. When the hole is almost thru, (d) remove the dead center and (e) butt the spindle against the wood to allow the drill to go all the way thru without injury to the center. This method may be used on end grain boring, with such problems as the rolling pin handle and electrolier. Where a hole is to be bored longer than the length of the drill, reverse the ends and bore half way from each end. It will be found difficult to clean long holes of the shavings, and therefore it is not advisable to force the work too much; besides, the drill will become very hot, and must be cooled frequently by dipping in water. For face-plate boring, where there is danger of splitting the wood, it is advisable to use a Forstner bit, as the screw on an auger bit is very apt to force the wood apart, and there is a great tendency for the bit to be pulled into the wood too rapidly. In order to center a Forstner bit, turn in a short distance with a chisel. Fig. 50 shows a center bit in use which works equally as well as the Forstner bit.