Tool Processes In Woodworking | by A. P. Laughlin
This little book is intended to set out only those things that a boy must know in order to do intelligent work with the usual woodworking tools. It is peculiar in what it omits as well as in the way it presents its subject-matter. It omits everything that the boy can find out easily for himself or that does not contribute to his understanding and skill in the use of tools. Under the head of Reference Work these omissions are suggested as topics for study. Let the students look up these matters as they come to them. A few reference books will do for a large class when used in this way and the boys will come to see the value of books and learn how to use them in their work.
| Title | Tool Processes In Woodworking |
| Author | A. P. Laughlin |
| Publisher | The Manual Arts Press |
| Year | 1919 |
| Copyright | 1919, A. P. Laughlin |
Introduction- This little book is intended to set out only those things that a boy must know in order to do intelligent work with the usual woodworking tools. It is peculiar in what it omits as well as in the way i...
- Chapter I. Method Of Procedure
- When starting any model or project in the shop proceed as follows: 1. Make a drawing or set of drawings that will show the size and shape of every piece that enters into its construction, and the m...
- Chapter II. Drawing
- Before you can make any project you must know the size and shape of every part that enters into its construction. You must also know how the parts are assembled. Properly made working drawings will sh...
- Detail Parts Of Footstool
- Side Rails Fig. 2. Legs 2. If drawings are furnished, detail each of the parts to be made, i. e., draw them out full size, or to a large scale, and note all the dimensions necessary ...
- Chapter III. Measuring And Laying-Out Tools
- It is impossible to over-emphasize the value of properly laying out one's work. If his lines are wrong, the workman stands a poor chance of cutting things to fit. The two most important rules to ...
- How to Use The Rule
- 1. In pointing off a number of spaces along a line, measure them all from one starting point. For example, do not measure part of them from one end of a board and part from the other. The piece may...
- How to Use The Try-Square
- 1. The try-square is composed of a beam and a blade set at right angles to each other. (See Fig. 15.) 2. It is used, (a) to test right angles, and (b) as a guide for the knife or pencil in drawing ...
- How to Use The Marking Gage
- 1. The marking gage is composed of a beam, a head, a spur, and a thumb screw. (See Fig. 15.) 2. The marking gage is used to make lines parallel to an edge, usually in the direction of the grain of ...
- The T-Bevel
- 1. The T-Bevel is composed of a beam and an adjustable blade. (See Fig. 15.) 2. It is used to lay out and test angles other than right angles. Reference Work: Learn how to set the T-bevel for 45&de...
- The Steel or Framing Square
- The steel square may be of any size. It is used in the manual training shop largely to test angles, and in setting the T-bevel. The carpenter finds many other uses for it. It is especially useful to h...
- The Dividers
- The dividers, or compasses, are constructed in various ways, but the so-called wing dividers are found in most shops. (See Fig. 15.) They are used: 1. To lay out circles or arcs of circles. 2. T...
- Chapter IV. Hand Saws
- 1. Crosscut and rip saws. Woodworkers use two types of saws, one to cut across the grain, the other to cut lengthwise of the grain of wood. They are called, respectively, crosscut and rip saws. 2. ...
- Chapter V. Planes
- Fig. 18 shows the type of plane that is commonly used to smooth and true the broad surfaces, edges, and ends of boards. Fig. 18. 1A, double plane iron; 1, single plane iron; 2, plane iron ...
- Uses Of Planes
- Surface Planing The jack plane is about 14 long and is used to rough out the work. Its cutting edge (Fig. 19) is made slightly crowning, hence it will take a shaving that is thicker in the cen...
- Edge Planing
- The jack plane or the jointer should be used in edge planing. Both of these planes have their blades sharpened slightly crowning. (Figs. 19 and 21.) The jointer, which is about 24 long, should ...
- End Planing
- If you plane straight across the end of a board you are sure to splinter the farther corner. Hence you must either: Fig. 24. Fig. 25. 1. Plane from both edges toward the center, s...
- Chapter VI. Grinding And Sharpening Tools
- Grinding Grinding is the first operation in sharpening such bevel edge tools as plane irons and chisels. The more important points to remember are: 1. Grind plane irons and chisels to an angle o...
- Chapter VII. Squaring Stock To Dimensions
- The best mechanics observe the following order in planing a board to dimensions: 1. Plane a working face and mark with a face or witness mark. A working face should be a true plane surface...
- Chapter VIII. Miscellaneous Tool Processes
- Duplicate Parts It is very important to note when parts are duplicates or pairs, and to work them together, for time is thus saved and mistakes avoided. Hence, in making duplicate parts proceed a...
- How To Use the Chisel
- 1. The cutting edge of the chisel is made straight and square. Otherwise it is ground and sharpened like a plane iron. Caution: Keep the flat side flat. 2. Always use a mallet rather than a hamm...
- Form Work
- Table and chair legs, hall trees, the sides of magazine racks, writing desks, etc., are often so designed as to leave no edges parallel with their vertical axes. It often happens, however, that mortis...
- Cutting to Curved Outlines
- A narrow bladed saw such as the compass or the turning saw is the proper tool to use in cutting to an irregular or curved outline It is always possible, however, to work out such pieces with a common ...
- How To Use Scraper
- There are cross-grained or curly places on nearly all pieces of wood that will tear somewhat under the plane no matter how skillfully it may be used. Such places must be made smooth before the stain a...
- How To Use Sand Paper
- 1. Never use sand paper until all the work with the edge tools is finished. Why? 2. Always sand lengthwise of the grain, otherwise you will make cross-scratches on your work. 3. On flat surfaces...
- Nailing
- For careful nailing observe the following: 1. A line should be run to locate the centers of the nails. It is best to run this line on both sides and on both edges of the board. And, since the su...
- Fastening with Screws
- 1. Carefully locate the centers for the screw holes in the piece A (Fig. 34) thru which the screws are to pass. 2. Bore body size holes in piece A equal to or a little larger than the diameter of...
- Glue
- Books that explain all about glue and how to use it are to be found in nearly all libraries. For this reason and to give you a method for research, it has been decided not to write much upon this matt...
- Boring Tools
- 1. Look up the subject of bits and braces. 2. What is an auger bit, a gimlet bit, a twist drill? 3. Why will the twist drill work better in iron than the auger bit? 4. What is the use of the ...
- Chapter IX. The Common Joints
- If one has mastered the fundamental uses of the rule, the gage, and the square in laying out work; if he understands how to sharpen and use his chisel, his plane, and his saw, he should have little di...
- The Dado Joint
- A dado is a rectangular groove cut across the grain of a board (Fig. 37) into which another member is fitted. Laying Out the Joint In making all joints the lay-out of the work is of equal import...
- The Glue Joint
- 1. Arrange the boards so that the heart sides are alternately up and down. This is done to counteract the effects of warping. You can tell the heart side by looking at the annular rings on the ends...
- The Mortise-And-Tenon Joint
- There are a great many modifications of this joint. It would be well to look up and make sketches of the thru mortise-and-tenon, the blind mortise-and-tenon, the keyed, the stub, the wedged, the fox, ...
- Chapter X. Wood Finishing
- Wood is finished to protect it from moisture and dirt and to give it a color that will harmonize with its surroundings. For out of door work paint is usually used, but because paint conceals the grain...
- Fuming Oak and Chestnut
- On oak and chestnut the process of fuming may be substituted for that of staining. This process of fuming may be described as follows: 1. Dissolve some tannic acid in an equal amount of water. C...
- Oil Finishing
- Boiled linseed oil cut in a little turpentine makes a very good finish. It is especially good on close grained woods such as mahogany, cherry, black walnut, or yellow pine. If a natural color is wan...
- Care of Brushes
- Varnish and filler brushes can be cleaned with turpentine, benzine, naphtha, or gasoline, and then the turpentine or other cleanser may be put into the jar of filler, so that there is no waste. Shella...
- The Stain Bench
- The drawings (Fig. 40) show a satisfactory arrangement of containers and covers for stains and finishes. The containers are granite pails about six inches in diameter and four inches high. These pa...
- Chapter XI. Lumbering
- One ought never to work long in any material without making a real study of its characteristics and its sources. Lumber has grain; it warps and shrinks and is subject to many defects. It comes in many...
- Chapter XII. Suggestions To Teachers
- Method: Our experience with boys of eleven to fourteen years would seem to indicate a peculiar proneness to pick out and learn all the accidental or relatively unimportant matter that can be found ...
- Manual Training Equipment
- As a matter of suggestion we are giving a list of tools for a manual training equipment. For 96 students in four sections of 24 each. 24 10 pt. 22 Crosscut Saws (Disston's No. 8; Atkins' No. 153; ...
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