1. The marking gage is composed of a beam, a head, a spur, and a thumb screw. (See Fig. 15.)

2. The marking gage is used to make lines parallel to an edge, usually in the direction of the grain of the wood.

3. When using, always keep the head of the gage against the "face side," or the "joint edge" of your work. (See Rules for squaring stock to dimensions, Chapter VII (Squaring Stock To Dimensions).)

4. For accurate work test the setting of the gage with the rule.

The spur may be bent or sharpened so that the distance from the point to the head is more or less than the reading on the beam.

5. When using the gage roll the beam over so that the spur will drag.

6. Do not attempt to gage a line on a board without pressing the end of the board firmly against something rigid.

7. Avoid running gage lines so that they will show upon the finished work. (See Rule 4, The Try-Square - How to use.)

8. In laying out chamfers and all cuts not at right angles to the surface, a pencil gage should be used. Why?

9. In gaging for joints always use very light lines and set the gage exact.

Marking Gage

There are times, however, when one should set the gage "strong" and run a heavy gage line, e. g. when gaging for width. The saw can then be made to cut to the center of the gage line and one or two strokes with the plane will bring the piece to exact width and just remove the gage line. (See notes on sawing, Chapter IV (Hand Saws).)

10. The gage is an edge tool. The spur must, therefore, be kept sharp. Reference Work: It will be interesting to look up the slitting gage, the pencil gage, the mortise gage, the butt gage, the panel, the surface and bit gages. Any tool catalog will show all of these, and it will not be difficult to learn their uses.