This section is from the book "Tool Processes In Woodworking", by A. P. Laughlin.
1. The cutting edge of the chisel is made straight and square.
Otherwise it is ground and sharpened like a plane iron. Caution: Keep the flat side flat.
2. Always use a mallet rather than a hammer to drive the chisel. Why?
3. Always take thin shavings when cutting to, or close to, a line.
If thick shavings are taken lengthwise of the grain, the wood will split and follow the direction of the grain. If thick shavings are taken across the grain, the wedging action causes the chisel to spread the cut in both directions and so to crowd over the line intended.
4. If possible give the chisel a sliding or shearing motion when cutting across the end grain of wood.
Examine the cutting edge of your chisel with a reading glass and you will discover the reason.
5. In cutting "thru" mortises, dadoes, etc., work from both surfaces toward the center of the piece. Why? Reference Work: Look up and report the meaning of the terms: tang chisel, socket chisel, firmer chisel, framing chisel and bevel-edge chisel. Make sketches and describe the special advantages and uses of each.
 
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