Candlesticks, electroliers and all problems requiring both spindle and face-plate turning, come under this heading.

Our first example will be a candlestick, Plates XXIV, XXV, and XXVI, made of some hard wood, such as mahogany, walnut, oak, ebony, cocobolo, cherry, birds-eye, curly or plain maple, etc.

The Base

(a) Cut a piece of stock of sufficient thickness to allow 1/8" for facing upon both sides, and 1/4" larger in diameter than the design, (b) Screw this stock on a face-plate, using short screws and keeping them near the outside edge, so that no hole will remain when the work has been completed. .

We are now ready to start on slow speed, and (c) cut in from the face along the edge to the required diameter, (d) Clean up the face until true, and (e) cut the opening which is to hold the lead. Note that the under side of the base is turned first, (f) Shape the edge up to the last fillet (where there is a fillet), (g) sandpaper and finish. (See Finishing, page 33.)

Now (h) remove the wood from the face-plate, and rechuck. In turning the design shown in Plate XXIV, (i) cut the chuck 1/4 deep, the height of the edge, and true up the face to the required thickness, (k) boring the hole in the top, Fig. 50, with a 1/2" Forstner bit. Since a Forstner bit has no spur to center it when boring, it is advisable to cut in a short distance with an 1/8" chisel to make sure of hitting the center, (See Lathe Boring, page 78.) (1) Shape the remaining part of the case, (m) sandpaper and finish. When polishing the base, great care must be taken not to allow any oil to work its way into the hole on top, otherwise the glue will not adhere. On account of danger of splitting the base, bore the hole first.

Fig. 50. Boring Face-plate Work.

The Shaft

(a) Cut the rough stock 1/8" longer and 1/8" larger in section than the design. To make sure of having the hole in the center (on the top of the shaft), (b) bore a 7/8" hole first and turn around the hole. Bore 1 3/8" deep to allow 1/8" for cleaning up the end, and (c) turn a plug between centers keeping the live center impressions for future turning, (d) Now glue this plug in place as indicated, Fig. 51, and when the glue has set, (e) the shaft can be turned, (f) After all polishing has been completed, (g) fit the dowel into the base.

Plate XXIV.

Plate XXV.

Plate XXVI.

(a) Place the two parts of the candlestick together, and turn the bottom side up. Having done this, (b) pour enough molten lead into the base to just come flush, and (c) cool immediately from the under side with a blower. If a high polish has been put on the base, it will be advisable to drop a small quantity of mercury into the lead - this alloy will melt at a lower temperature and therefore will not blister the polish.

When the lead has cooled off, (d) glue the base and shaft together, (e) finishing the bottom with felt. (See Bowls, page 54.)

Fig. 51.