This section is from the book "Our Homes And Their Adornments", by Almon C. Varney. Also available from Amazon: Our Homes and Their Adornments.
The question of making original designs for embroidery, while of importance, is too difficult for amateurs. Those who are naturally ingenious will be able to construct their own designs, or modify those already made to suit their own convenience.
The method of getting the design stamped depends upon the nature and color of the material. For light material, the design may be first drawn or traced upon tissue-paper; next place a sheet of carbonized paper under the tissue-paper and upon the material, and go over the design with a sharp pencil or a dull needle, when it will be found transferred to the fabric in minute dots of black. If carbonized paper is not to be had, make it, by slightly oiling one side of thick tissue-paper and scraping fine pencil dust upon the oiled surface, being careful to remove all the surplus of pencil dust with a soft rag.
Where the design is to be transferred to a dark material, it must be done by pouncing. First draw the design upon thick paper, and then prick the outlines through the paper with a pin or needle, or if it be large, on a sewing-machine with an unthreaded needle; now place the design, face downward, and go over it with a pounce bag made of muslin and filled with starch, stamping powder, or pipe-clay powdered. Remove the pattern and touch up the design with a solution of pipe-clay or other coloring matter not in-jurious to the fabric.
In all cases, however, where it is practicable, the stamping should be done by one who knows how, thus avoiding the annoyance and danger of damaging the material.
Applique, or Cut-Work, - Has been divided into two kinds, in-laid and on-laid. Inlaid work consists in cutting the same pattern from two materials and fitting one into the other, much after the fashion of inlaid scroll-saw work, and fastening the inlaid part with embroidery silk. Onlaid work differs from the foregoing in this particular: The pattern is cutout from several stuffs, and then fastened upon another material with paste, after which the edges are sewed down with silk.
To those unacquainted with the work, it may be necessary to explain that the pattern, as prepared, is basted on the foundation to which it is to be applied, and all the edges of the colored felt pieces are caught down in button-hole or couching stitch with filling floss or embroidery silks of suitable shades. Any lines inside the figures, such as the veins of leaves, are worked in stem stitch; and small leaves, stems, etc., outside the figures, are worked in embroidery stitches or herring-bone stitch. The paper of the pattern is then torn away, which is facilitated by slightly moistening it, and the design remains on the foundation. The work is rapidly and easily done, and when the newer and more tasty designs are used, the effect is remarkably good.
Drawn Work - Consists in drawing out the threads of linen and working in patterns with fancy stitches. It is very popular, and elaborate designs are now made by this method, although the work is very trying to the eyes.
Embroidery Frames - Are made something after the fashion of quilting frames. Care must be taken to stretch the material firmly and evenly.
 
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