This section is from the book "The Garden Week By Week Throughout The Year", by Walter P. Wright. Also available from Amazon: The Garden Week by Week Throughout the Year.
Bulbs that are taken out of flower beds in spring need not be regarded as useless. Tulips and Daffodils nearly always, Hyacinths often, do well again the following year. This is particularly the case if the soil is deep and moist, and if the plants are cared for after flowering. When a bed is being cleared, the bulbs should be laid in shallow boxes with a little earth clinging to the roots as fast as they are taken up, and carried away to a spare corner of the garden, where they can be covered with soil. Wallflowers are not worth preserving, because, as we shall see soon, they are best raised from seed every year. They may be taken to the rubbish corner forthwith. If Primroses and Polyanthuses are grown they should be taken up in clumps, with soil attached, placed in boxes, and removed to the reserve garden, where they should be planted and watered. Large clumps can be divided at the same time, and the divisions set out a foot apart in rich, moist soil. These will thicken out into good plants by autumn, and will come in admirably for the next year's spring bedding. All plants having been removed, and all remnants of foliage gathered up, the soil should be deeply dug and the edges neatly trimmed. Decayed manure may be dug in if the soil is very poor, but not otherwise. In setting out the fresh plants, a few leading points should be borne in mind: (1) never put many different kinds of plant in one bed; (2) do not mix plants of different heights indiscriminately, rather have one low kind dotted with one taller kind; (3) blend the colours in accordance with the hints given in the remarks on Herbaceous Borders, Chapter III (March. The Dawn Of Spring).; (4) bear in mind the probable dimensions of the various plants when they have developed, and plant at distances which may be expected to secure a full, but not a crowded, bed; (5) settle the plants firmly and deeply into the soil; (6) give a good watering.
There is beauty in the gardens of those Rose lovers who grow a good many Tea varieties from the first outbreak of new shoots, for the stems and foliage are ruddily tinted. Amateurs who grow for exhibition must give attention to the removal of some of the shoots if they come thickly. Half-a-dozen branches will be enough for each tree. Later they must also thin the flower buds. If leaves are seen to be curling, search must be made for a small maggot, and if it is found to be the cause all curled leaves should be crushed.
Climbers that have been recently planted against walls or in the open will be greatly benefited by soakings of water if the weather is dry. It will help any that seem to be establishing themselves slowly if they are syringed every day for a week, as this will lessen evaporation, and reduce the drain upon the roots.
Carnations begin to throw up their flower stems several weeks before the blooms open, and supports should be put to them in good time. If wooden stakes are used, care must be taken not to loop the flower stems tightly to them, or extension will be checked. Trouble from this cause has led to the invention of wire coil stakes. They are painted green, and cost between a shilling and eighteen-pence a dozen. Clips cost about a shilling a hundred. If Carnations do badly, dwindling rather than growing, without any external cause, wireworm or leather-jacket grubs may be suspected. The first point can generally be settled speedily by taking the unsatisfactory plants up, when the pests will probably be found on or near them. If grubs are found, some pieces of raw Potato had better be impaled on sticks and embedded as baits near the plants. Further, holes may be made a few inches deep round the plants, and Apterite or Vaporite dropped in.
Cyclamens that have gone out of bloom may now have the flower stems removed, and be repotted. Three parts of fibrous loam, one each of decayed manure and leaf mould and a good dash of coarse sand, will suit them. They should be placed on an ash-bed stage in the greenhouse, and, when they have started growing, given abundance of water. Frequent syringing will prove advantageous, as the plants like a moist atmosphere.
The beautiful Arum Lily does well in the open garden in summer, if the soil is deep and rich; and planting it out saves house-room and trouble in watering. A simple plan is to make a trench six inches deep, place the plants in it after turning them out of their pots, press the soil around them, and give a good soaking of water.
Young plants of Hydrangea which have grown from cuttings put in a few weeks ago may now be transferred to 5-inch pots. The compost recommended for Cyclamens will suit them. When they are six inches high, the tip of the shoot may be pinched out.
 
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