Now install the sliding doors, and attach the two vertical frame strips (1/8" x 3/4" bar) 18" from each end in the top cabinet. The two silver drawers below the top cabinet measure 173/4" wide over all, 6" deep, 2" high. Make from 1/2" plywood, and slot upper outside surfaces 3/8" from top and 1/4" deep to fit the drawer slides, made from U-shaped strips of plain aluminum sheet screwed to the bottom of upper cabinet. See Fig. 4—83 for details.

Storage Divider (Fig. 11-19) combines a storage cabinet, considerable shelf area, and a room divider. While other dimensions can easily be adopted, the unit shown measures 6' wide, 5' high, and 20" deep. Storage cabinet at left is 3' high, 2' wide. Lower cabinet is 18" high, 4' wide. Notice that the bottom of lower cabinet extends the full width of the unit and that the top section of upper cabinet also extends the full width of unit. The shelf near the top, of course, is only 4' wide.

The only aluminum used in this design are the six 5' lengths of 1/8" x 3/4" x 3/4" angle used for the legs. To construct this unit, make and assemble the two cabinets. Remember that top of the upper cabinet, top and bottom of lower cabinet extend the full width of the unit (6'). Then attach the aluminum legs with wood screws. Either install sliding doors (per Fig. 4-82), or attach hinges for doors which may be either plywood or Masonite.

Modified Storage Divider (Fig. 11-20) is made to exactly the same dimensions as the unit of Fig. 11-19. It has a more distinctive touch, however, due to its novel combination of wood and glass. This unit utilizes a 1/8" x 3/4" x 3/4" angle frame for the shelf just under the top and for the lower left-hand shelf as well. Then a piece of double-weight window glass is cut to fit and set in place after covering edges with Scotch tape to prevent glass-to-metal contact.

Corners of these angle frames adjoining the wood are bent, per Fig. 4-39. Corners fitting into legs are cut to length, mitered, and riveted inside legs. Use wood screws to attach frame to wood panels.

Floor Lamp—Table Combination (Fig. 11-21) will add a modern touch to any setting when finished in black lacquer and satin aluminum. Yet it's so simple to make. Cut a 1/2" plywood panel into a triangle measuring 24" on each side. At the peak of this triangle, mark off a 4" radius instead of the sharp corner, and drill a 11/4" hole at center of this radius.

On the other two corners, mark off 2" radii instead of the sharp pointed corner and drill 94" holes on centers so located. Note from Fig. 11-21 that the front edge of table is not a straight line but a V. Measure to the center of this side of the fable, and put a mark out 2" toward the lamp post. From this point, mark a straight line back to the two front corners, and cut along this line.

Now bend a 6' length of x 1" bar on edge to fit around the table, making the two ends come together at the center of the V. Anchor one end of bar into the V with wood screws. See Fig. 4-32 and accompanying instructions. Then wrap bar around table edge with table clamped securely to workbench, using a rubber mallet to aid forming. Anchor with another screw as each side is completed. Cut free end to fit into the V, and attach with two more "invisible" screws.

Add three small braces (of 1/8"x 3/4" bar) under table around 11/4" tube to reinforce its connection to table. Front legs have added 1/2" plywood block under table for additional grip on tube. Close top and bottom of front legs with snap-in closures, as well as bottom of other leg. The lamp shade is a cone of plain sheet, 18" diameter, 3" deep, with a 3" hole in the top. The lamp socket comes with small tube, which you fit into the top of lamp support by inserting a block in top of 11/4 " tube and drilling to fit. Support shade with a spring clip from any old lamp shade available.