Serving Wagon (Fig. 11-1) has top 20" wide, 26" long, plus ice box. Shelf under top is also 20" wide, 38" long. Bottom shelf is 20" wide, 40" long. Make the three shelf frames first, using ;x 94" x 94" angle, cut and mitered at corners. Corners of top two frames are joined by riveting to vertical corner posts of 1/16" x 1" x 1" angle and 8" long, per Fig. 4-43. A small section of this same angle connects corners of bottom frame. Insert plywood panels in top two frames; use 3/4" x11/2" slats for bottom shelf. Attach by screws up through angle into bottom of shelves. Face top-panel surface with embossed sheet cemented per instructions to be found near the end of Chap. 4.

Use 6" rubber-tired wheels. Front and back legs extend up at 60° angle, although back legs can be at a steeper angle if desired. Legs and handle frame are also 94" angle. Double-rivet joints, and use reinforcing plates at corners, per Fig. 4—46. Add 1/8" x 3/4" cross braces under back legs to stiffen the structure. The handle is a piece of 3/4" tube 20" long, with dowel rod inserts to permit attaching to frame with screws into tube ends, per Fig. 4-68.

Ice box is 8" deep, 191/2" wide, 12" front to back at top, with inside surface sloping to 10" at bottom. Make as a box section (lay out per Fig. 3-6) from a single sheet of embossed aluminum 261/2" x 36". Put 1/4" hem (Fig. 3-5) around top edge. Overlap and rivet corners per Fig. 4-7. Make watertight by applying mastic into corners.

Inlaid Cocktail Table (Fig. 11-2) features seven 1/4" x 1" bars inlaid in the top and spaced 11/2 apart. First build up a panel of black walnut by gluing together enough boards 11/2" or 11/4" thick to produce the table top, which measures 52" x 171/2" over all. A jointer makes this an easy assignment. Now sand top smooth and level.

Inlay top before working tapers. Make a straight square edge down the length of one side. Using this edge against rip fence, use bench saw to cut slots into table top to fit bars exactly. If you have a dado head available for your saw, this inlaying is easy. Adjust the head to make a 1" cut just a trifle over 1/4" deep. Hold the reference edge steadily against the rip fence to get straight cuts. If you have no dado head, make regular saw cuts, setting rip fence carefully each time to get a slot just exactly 1" wide. Then use a wood chisel to remove material between saw cuts. Be sure bottom of cuts is deep enough and even.

Try fitting bar into each slot separately. If bar does not sink in slightly below level of wood, clean out slot or cut deeper. Secure bars in slots by gluing all three sides of slot. Hold bars fully into slots with scrap wood and C-clamps. Use 1" #8 flat-head aluminum screws at three points on each bar .... center and 6" from each end. Make screws invisible by countersinking so bottom of screw slot is above surface of bar. See Fig. 4-32 and accompanying instructions. Grind off top of screws. Sand entire top of table down smooth and level with portable belt gander.

Outline of table top tapers from 171/2" at center to 15" at each end (see Fig. 11-3). So cut this outline first, using a smooth curve for the taper, not a straight line. Thickness of table top reduces sharply toward ends and sides. To work this down, turn table top over and mark out 10" x 32" in the center. This area will not be reduced. But tapering from this area, ends are reduced to 1/2" thickness at the tips and sides to 94" along the edge. Use a belt sander to cut this down and to round off the finished edges smoothly.

Make a 10" x 32" rectangular frame (item 2, Fig. 11-3) from four pieces of 1/8" x 3/4" x 3/4" angle, mitering corner joints and using splice plates as in Fig. 4-33. Turn table top upside down, and screw to underside of table with the flat face of angles against table. The other flat face of angles should face outward. Be sure you have made frame this way.

Cut four 94" tube 17" long for the legs. Drill legs 6" from top for the 3/8" rod bracing; end-rivet to legs per Fig. 4-21. Make 90° bend in rods approximately 51/2" from end joining to legs. Make another 90° bend in the same direction 12" farther along bar. Allow 2" more at this point for attaching rod to underside of table, and cut off rod. Rivet rod together in pairs as shown in Fig. 11-2. Secure rod to underside of table (at "6," Fig. 11-3) with 3" straps of 1/8" x 94" bar bent to go halfway around rod and screwed to underside of table.

Before attaching rod, secure rod to table legs and fasten legs in corner of angle framework with a bolt at "3," Fig. 11-39 through end of 1" angle frame and another through side of frame. Be sure legs are positioned 16" wide overall at floor level and 39" apart as shown in Fig. 11-3.

Finish by polishing all aluminum surfaces with steel wool. Blend off all corners, and sand perfectly smooth. Apply sealer coat to table top after cutting slots and after installing the bar. Apply two heavy wipe-on coats of clear plastic finish for beautiful deep glasslike surface.