If bones are not provided every day, a third meal must be given; but bones are best, as they keep the teeth in condition, and kittens provided with them have no difficulty when teething.

Arrangements should be made with the butcher to provide you with a full cut shin every day; then the gristly parts can be used for the full-grown cats, the next best for the half-grown kittens, and the very best for the tiny ones.

The rough end-bone should be given to the older cats, and the middle sections to the kittens, being sure to remove the marrow, as this will upset kittens. In addition to this, if you have a number of cats, procure fresh meat cuttings or breasts of lamb; have all the bones removed, and put the meat through the chopper. A fair percentage of fat will not hurt the older cats and kittens, if fed raw.

When the butcher understands you really need the meat for your prize cats, he will be more liberal; if not, I advise a change of butcher, making arrangements about your cats' meat before giving him your custom. Any beef bones are acceptable, such as neck and rib bones; neck of beef will do in place of shin. It is not necessary to have the expensive parts of meat, provided the other is thoroughly fresh.

If you have a great number of kittens to feed, a small quantity of cooked lamb or sheep's liver can be used; but always remember three parts raw meat must be used, and lime-water mixed with all food until the kittens are full-grown.

Never give pig's or beef liver, or even hearts, as they are most indigestible.

If at the age of ten months the kittens show any inclination to scratch, and there are no fleas present, it is usually an indication of irritation caused by the coat shedding. Give a pinch of phosphate of soda on each meal for a week or two; this will prevent the irritation and also stop the hair from falling so rapidly.

In summer, all meat must be kept in the ice-box. Many people think it is injurious to feed meat ice cold, but I have never found this to do any harm on the very hottest days. When the kittens have reached a panting condition, I have given them all their meals straight from the ice-box; on the other hand, should there be a decided drop in the temperature, it is best to give the food with the chill off. Either stand it in a warmer place for a few hours before feeding, or mix with a little hot water or liver gravy.

Never give kittens any stewed meat, stew gravy or beef-tea; all cooked meats cause dysentery, just the same as milk foods.

Kittens, when healthy, are always constipated, and they need no oil or laxatives, nor any foods which cause such conditions; therefore, I do not recommend fish, milk, cereals, oatmeal, potatoes, etc. Milk and fish act as laxatives, and cereals produce a heated state of the blood and skin troubles.

Kittens raised on a meat diet are seldom ill, and if they catch cold or contract contagious and infectious diseases, they are as a rule easy to cure and seldom succumb.

Kittens should always have access to green grass or oats grown in pots; but it will be noticed they do not appreciate this until they have nearly attained their full growth; at this age they are apt to overeat occasionally, as they have practically stopped growing, and then they partake of the green grass as a medicine, whenever needed.

Vegetables, such as cooked spinach, asparagus, green peas, and all kinds of greens may be minced with the kittens' meat once or twice a week, when they attain the age of eight or ten months, using, of course, only a small quantity.

Roast lamb or beef, underdone, is much appreciated, without fat, of course, and minced. If a kitten shows a loss of appetite, do not force it to eat for twenty-four hours, and if you know it has been eating anything to upset it, give a one-grain cascara tablet, or three grains to a six-month kitten; then, if it shows signs of any particular disease, put it on invalid diet; dose as per instructions in chapters on diseases.

Always remove any kitten that appears ill, even if it is only slightly upset, for often these infantile disturbances are highly contagious.

Do not try to give medicines continually to your kittens; it is a great mistake. A cascara tablet or a few doses of bismuth are all that are necessary when they are properly fed. Remember, all meat must be finely minced and thoroughly fresh, as tainted meat will upset any kitten.

Kittens raised on raw meat do not become savage, as is erroneously supposed; ill-temper is hereditary, or can also be caused by teasing and rough treatment.

Kittens treated kindly never become spiteful, even though they have tasted nothing but raw meat; but if either parent is ill-tempered, it is sure to appear in some of the kittens.

The average growth of a large healthy kitten is one pound a month, and several of a litter will gain as much as this, though the females and lighter-coloured kittens are not usually as large. If they weigh seven pounds at seven months, they generally make good-sized cats.

Autumn-bred kittens do not grow fast during the winter. They make their growth later on, when the warm spring weather comes.

When starting in the cat fancy I was informed that ninety per cent. of all kittens died. I am happy to say I have discovered that, with careful treatment, ninety per cent. of my kittens grow up. It certainly would be a poor recompense to any fancier to lose ninety per cent. of his young stock, and yet I know this to be the case with many cat fanciers.

Robinson's patent barley, made with sweetened condensed milk, adding a raw egg and lime-water, given once a clay, makes a good third meal for young kittens; but do not let them take too much of this, and discontinue it if it deos not thoroughly agree with them. Kittens should always be raised in large, airy rooms or buildings with covered runs. Never allow them to get wet or sit on damp ground; avoid draughts and shut all windows at night, except in severe hot spells, as sudden temperature changes will produce colds.

Fresh air and exercise is essential for the welfare of kittens.

Fairy Silver Bells.

Lord Lorin.