2855. To Darken Light Mahogany

2855.    To Darken Light Mahogany. "When furniture is repaired, it frequently happens that the old wood cannot be matched, and therefore the work presents a patched appearance. To prevent this, wash the pieces introduced, with soap-lees, or dissolve quicklime in water, and use in the same manner; but be careful not to let either be too strong, or it will make the wood too dark; it is best, therefore, to use it rather weak at first, and, if not dark enough, repeat the process till the wood is sufficiently darkened.

2856. Red Stain for Bedsteads and Common Chairs

2856.     Red Stain for Bedsteads and Common Chairs. Archil will produce a very good stain of itself, when used cold; but if, after 1 or 2 coats being applied and suffered to get almost dry, it is brushed over with a hot solution of pearlash in water, it will improve the color.

2857. To Improve the Color of any Stain

2857.    To Improve the Color of any Stain. Mix in a bottle 1 ounce of nitric acid, 1/2 tea-spoonful muriatic acid, 1/4 ounce grain tin, and 2 ounces rain water. Mix it at least 2 days before using, and keep the bottle well corked.

2858. To Stain Musical Instruments and Fancy Boxes

2858.    To Stain Musical Instruments and Fancy Boxes. Fancy work necessitates the employment of brighter colors than those used for furniture; we therefore give the following receipts for preparing and applying those most commonly employed for such purposes.

2859. Fine Crimson Stain

2859.     Fine Crimson Stain. Boil 1 pound good Brazil dust in 3 quarts water for an hour; strain it, and add 1/2 ounce cochineal; boil it again gently for 1/2 an hour, and it will be fit for use. If required of a more scarlet tint, boil 1/2 ounce saffron in 1 quart of water for an hour, and pass over the work previous to the red stain.

2860. Fine Green Stain

2860.    Fine Green Stain. To 3 pints strongest vinegar, add 4 ounces best verdigris pounded fine, 1/2 ounce sap green, and 1/2 ounce indigo. Distilled vinegar, or verjuice, improves the color.

2861. Purple Stain

2861.    Purple Stain. To 1 pound good chip logwood, put 3 quarts water; boil it well for an hour; then add 4 ounces pearlash, and 2 ounces pounded indigo.

2862. Fine Blue Stain

2862.    Fine Blue Stain. Into 1 pound oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid) in a clean glass phial, put 4 ounces indigo, and proceed as above directed in dyeing purple.

2863. Bright Yellow Stain

2863.     Bright Yellow Stain. "Wood need not be stained yellow, as a small piece | of aloes put into the varnish will have the desired effect.

2864. Fine Black Stain

2864. Fine Black Stain. As a general thing, when black is required in musical instruments, it is produced by japanning; the work being well prepared with size and lampblack, apply the black japan (see No. 2322 (Blue Sealing-Wax)), after which, varnish and polish. But as a black stain is sometimes required for fingerboards, bridges, and flutes, proceed as directed in staining (see No. 2850 (Fine Black Stain)); the wood, however, ought to be either pear, apple, or boxwood; the latter is preferable; and if it be rubbed over, when dry, with a rag or flannel dipped in hot oil, it will give it a gloss equal to ebony.

2865. To Stain Boxwood Brown

2865. To Stain Boxwood Brown. Hold the work to the fire, that it may receive a gentle warmth; then take aquafortis, and with a feather pass over the work until it changes to a fine brown (always keeping it near the fire); then oil and polish it.

2866. Cane Staining

2866. Cane Staining. By the following simple process, canes and similar sticks may be stained a rich brown: Dissolve a few grains sulphate of manganese in sufficient water to take it up; moisten the surface of the cane with it, and hold it over the flame of a spirit lamp close enough to scorch it. By care, the whole surface may be brought to a uniform rich brown, or beautifully variegated by heating some parts more than others; thus varying the color from white to the deepest black. The color will appear dull at first; but, on oiling it with raw linseed oil, and rubbing it with a smooth piece of hard wood, it will be beautifully developed. Give the cane no other finish, unless it be another oiling some days after the first.