As the engine shown in the drawing is of the automatic intake typo, the intake valves will take care of themselves. Turn the engine over toward the front until the exhaust valve begins to open, as shown by the compression of the valve spring. Continue turning until the valve is full open, when a wire inserted through the spark-plug hole will show that the piston is at the top of the cylinder or at the upper dead center. At this point the flywheel will revolve some distance without the piston's moving. Mark the wire, and then turn the wheel one more complete revolution and until the piston descends about 3/16 inch past the dead enter. Now set the roller, hall, or other type of contact of the timer where it will strike the contact post that is to represent the cylinder you have timed to fire at this point, making sure that the roller or ball is striking the contact so that it will continue to spark after passing 3/16 inch beyond dead center, as this is .a vital point. Fasten a double-cylinder spark coil to the inner side of the body nearest to the engine, so as to use short wires.

Fig. 321 - Plan and end view of fuel tank.

Fig. 322 - Plan and side view of radius rods.

Throttle lever, rods, etc., should be set backward as the timer was. A simple, inexpensive carbureter is advisable, such as a Schebler model E, which has only two adjustments to make, one for the air and another for the gas. Screw the air adjustment screw about half way down, and lock it there. Then adjust the gas to give the best results. When the gas throttle is closed, the lever on the steering post should be in rearward position, that is, toward the driver.

The gasoline tank should be made to fit between the sills of the seat and fastened on the right-hand side, leaving the space over the engine open. The tank can be made in any tinshop, of galvanized iron with strap iron supports, as in Fig. 321.

A force-feed oiler will give the best results, and can be driven by leather or spring-wire belt from a pulley on the crankshaft.

Radius rods are made from 7/8-inch hexagon stock, turned down as in Fig. .322, and with right and left threads cut on the ends. so that they can be lengthened or shortened by turning.

Fig. 323 - Wiring diagram for engine.

A two-speed planetary transmission is used, which also has a reverse gear. The band nearest the flywheel gives reverse motion, and the other is for first or slow speed ahead. High speed is controlled by a lever on the side, which, when pushed forward, locks all the gears, the transmission turning as a unit, so that the drive is direct at the same speed as the engine. First speed and reverse are controlled by pedals, which, when pushed forward, tighten the friction bands around the drums on the transmission. The bands should be free of the drums when the car is not running. Otherwise the machine will have a tendency to creep forward or backward when the engine is running and the gears are not engaged, according to which band is dragging, and the bands will wear out rapidly. The pedals are held in plates screwed to the floor of the car in front of the seat, and have ratchets to hold them in position when set. The brake pedal is held in the same way. The footboard must be sawed away to receive the plate at just the proper distance from the seat to be comfortable in operation, and care must be taken to have the pedals come in exact line with the transmission bands, otherwise there will be a tendency for the rods to pull the bands sidewise, so that they will not hold securely and will wear unduly.

All the necessary parts and materials for transforming a buggy as described, and equipping complete, can be bought ready made at a total of $283.57, as itemized herewith: