Some of the species of this genus are among the most showy and fragrant of summer-flowering plants, and they deserve to be more generally cultivated than they have hitherto been. The magnificent specimens annually produced at the great metropolitan exhibitions in July indicate the capabilities of the genus, and good plants are frequently produced far from the scene of these meetings. I doubt, however, whether any genus equally deserving attention is so commonly neglected or mismanaged by country gardeners as this. With a little care the flowers remain in perfection for some six or eight weeks, and the plants will be found exceedingly useful in the show-house, to take the place of the Azalea when the beauty of the latter is over.

Young plants intended for specimens should be dwarf and bushy, with strong well-ripened wood; those that may have been wintered in a soft, half-growing state, should be rejected, as it is difficult to get them to break freely or grow vigorously. Place them early in March in a mild, growing temperature, of from about 46° at night to 60° with sunshine. The shoots must be stopped or cut back, as may be necessary to insure a compact, bushy growth; and young branches will be produced much more freely, if two or three pairs of leaves are removed from the points of the shoots; and this should always accompany stopping. If the roots are abundant and active, shift into pots two sizes larger than those the plants are in; but first see that the ball is properly moist, and be careful to have the soil to be used in the same condition. Nothing is more likely to cause failure than neglect of this. The side-shoots should be tied out, keeping them near the surface of the soil. Keep the atmosphere rather close and moist, and water carefully till the roots start into the fresh soil. When the plants have broken, and are fairly started, the temperature may be increased to about 55° at night, and from 65° to 75° with sunshine.

This high temperature must not, however, be maintained without a free circulation of air; for the Kalosanthes, like most Cape plants, very much dislikes a stagnant atmosphere, and it requires all the light which can possibly be afforded it; therefore admit air freely, and keep the plants near the glass.

In May, or as early as warm weather sets in, they may be removed to a cold frame, where, with a little care, they can be kept sufficiently warm, and where the conditions most conducive to vigorous growth will be readily supplied. Air should be freely admitted whenever the state of the external temperature will permit. Although a stagnant humid atmosphere is injurious, with a circulation of air it can not be kept too moist. If they stand on a bed of coal ashes, this should be watered on the mornings of bright days, and the plants sprinkled over head towards evening, leaving a little air on during night. and a thin shade should be thrown over the glass desired. To produce large flowering plants, such as that represented in the accompanying wood-cut, it will be nececsary to grow them two seasons, and in this case they should be stopped and potted early in June, as they may hare filled their pots with roots. Have an eye to the formation of compact dwarf specimens, and stop and cut back as freely as may be necessary to secure this; for they break freely, and there is no danger of injuring them by stopping or cutting back.

If plants to produce about a dozen heads of bloom each are all that is wanted, with good management this may be secured by one season's growth; but if large specimens are desired, it will be necessary to grow them two seasons. Plants intended to flower the following spring should receive a rather large shift at the beginning of the season, and must neither be stopped nor potted after the end of June. It is easier to produce large handsome specimens of Kalosanthes than to have well-flowered plants; and unless the wood is thoroughly ripened previous to winter, it will be useless to expect a fine display of blossom. The necessary maturation of the wood can be effected only by subjecting the plants to full exposure to air and sunshine, and keeping the soil in a rather dry state. This change of treatment must be introduced very gradually; but if a fair amount of flower is expected, the plants should be inured to it by the middle, or at latest the end of August. Those that were repotted may be treated less hard during autumn; but care must be used to get the wood of these well ripened before winter.

If they can be placed near the glass in a house where Grapes are preserved during winter, they will be suited perfectly; and as they require very little water at the root, they will be less injurious there than most plants.

The best situation for the flowering plants during spring is the front shelf in the greenhouse. They should be kept freely exposed to air and sun; and after the appearance of the flowers, the atmosphere can hardly be kept too dry. A moist stimulating atmosphere promotes growth; and the effect of this would be an unsightly lengthening of the stems, an occurrence by far too common. When the flowers assume their proper colors, remove them where they can be kept dry, cool, and shaded from the sun.

Plants intended for large specimens should be stopped and potted in March, and treated as already recommended for specimens intended to flower the following spring.

Propagation is easily effected. I generally select firm young shoots with several branches, and plant them in 4-inch pots in sandy peat, placing them in a close pit, carefully shading them till rooted, which will be in about a month. As regards soil, this should be light but rich; half turfy sandy loam and half fibry peat, with a liberal allowance of sharp silver-sand and small potsherds, broken bones, or charcoal, will be found a suitable compost. Strong tenacious loam had better be avoided, or at least used very sparingly. The peat and loam should be broken up into pieces about the size of a nut, and intimately mixed with the sand, Ac., previous to use. Secure perfect drainage by placing plenty of potsherds, properly arranged, in the bottom of the pots, covering with some rough fibry pieces of peat, so as to prevent the soil being washed down among them. - J.B., in Florist. London.