To further illustrate the principle of dwarfing evergreens, I will refer to the notable evergreen garden of Warner Bundy, in Hillsdale county, Mich. This park is in front of his residence, facing the southwest, upon a street to which it descends at an angle of perhaps 20°, say five and a half rods long, and four and a half rods wide, exclusive of a walk on the west side flanked with various and rare ornamental shrubbery. It contains about fifty evergreens, including the Savin, Arbor vitae Austrian pine, White pine, Silver pine, Swedish juniper, Red cedar, Red spruce, Norway spruce, Balsam, Hemlock, White spruce, etc., fifteen or more of which have been wrought upon to produce various forms. Of these, ten are particularly dwarfed low, and consist in part of Norways and Balsams. Other varieties have been practiced upon, but I write more particularly of the two latter varieties.

The dwarf Balsams and Norways are about from one and a half to two feet high in the center, averaging six feet in diameter. Semi-oblate spheroids - very oblate and shaped much in the form of a dining plate, reversed side up, highest in the center, with gentle taper from the centre to circumference, set out nine to ten years ago, when about one foot high, with low furnished foliage and side limbs. This park consists of a great variety of forms. Some trees are erect, like the Silver pine, White pine, Austrian pine and Arbor vitse, twelve inches in diameter respectively at the ground, set eleven years ago, and then of the same size as the dwarfs I am speaking of.

The method of dwarfing the evergreens was, in the first place, after the tree had become established, to cut back the top to the lower tier of limbs, then let grow, and the second year cut to the third tier of limbs, and so on from year to year, giving each year a new tier of limbs to grow out. The consequence was that there was a tremendously vigorous growth of the limbs left uncut, and every year's limbs falling on the tier next below, so that the whole tree was nearly flattened to the ground, and each tier of branches became imbricated on the tier below.

This park is not only a great curiosity and a credit to its maker and projector, but furnishes a study to any one who wishes to know what can be done in dwarfing evergreens from top downward, and furnishes a rich, dark green, vigorous foliage.

There is a class of evergreens that, for many years, have grown to a height that was not "bargained for" when set out, and having been set too close together on the start, have grown into high pinnacles, and become so near to a nuisance that it is a question whether to cut them down or let them stand. The trouble is that they have been let grow to from twenty to thirty feet high, just as happened, without any attention whatever. The result is that the Balsam, Black spruce, and such slow growing kinds, are thinning out and denuding their under limbs, looking sickly, running up into spindlcs and losing their beauty.

The Norway spruce has a rank and shaggy growth, but has lost all its original comeliness from inattention. The question is, what shall be done with these neglected pinnacle trees? Early in the spring, before the sap begins to move, cut off the Norway spruce, say ten feet from the ground, if that is the height you want, two inches above a tier of limbs, and then head in the ends of the limbs, forming a taper from top to bottom, and practice likewise for three years, and you will have a comely tree. When you head in the side limbs and cut off the top, you will see a wonderful difference in the handsome growth of the tree. As to the Balsam and Black spruce, if the lower limbs have thinned out too much, the tree has "gone up," and no use of doing anything but cut down the tree. Sometimes, if not too far gone, the top may be cut off as before said, and the side shoots shortened in, the tree trimmed up three or four feet if the lower limbs are dying, and a fair, vigorous tree be secured if annually attended to afterward.

I think I have now said enough about the principles of treating evergreens, so that the inexperienced, using good judgment, can transplant and manage them as well as he can desire. I will now mention a few points about pruning deciduous trees.