These will have now (Oct 22) completed their growth and formed their fLower-buda. See, therefore, that they are in a proper condition for wintering - their pots clean and the drainage complete; for to hare drainage perfect is of more consequence during winter than at any other season: if it is imperfect, the water will lodge in the soil, and turn it sour; the young roots will then perish, and the plant will Boon show the ill effects of such conditions. This fact can not be too strongly pressed upon the attention of the young cultivator. Should any worm-casts appear on the surface of the soil, means must be taken to get rid of them. If only one or two pots are infested, the most certain remedy is carefully to turn the ball out of the pot, and if the worms are outside, to gently remove them, without disturbing the roots; but if they are embedded in the soil, they will be more difficult to come at If the ball be gently struck with the hand, they will creep out of their hiding-places, and may then be destroyed. Should these means fail, let the plants become moderately dry, and then give a good watering with lime-water; this will effectually displace them. The green fly sometimes prevails in the early part of winter on the young shoots; these are easily got rid of by smoking with tobacco.

The application of water during winter is necessary, but only in very moderate quantities, merely just sufficient to keep the soil somewhat moist, care being taken that the ball is moistened to the center. All the artificial heat that is needed for the Epacris is just enough to keep out frost If the plants, or part of them, are kept in cold pits, they should be securely covered up every night when frost prevails; in very severe long-continued frost, it may be necessary to keep them covered closely up even during the day. They have been kept so covered up for a week together without injury; but on all favorable occasions uncover them, and give them fresh air to dry up damps, and keep the plants fresh and healthy. Air must also be given plentifully to the green-house, both to keep down the temperature and sweeten the atmosphere. Once or twice during the winter let the surface of the soil be stirred, and all Mosses and Lichens removed as well as weeds. Toward spring, when the flower-buds are beginning to push, a top-dressing of fresh mold will be acceptable and useful.

In order to perpetuate choice varieties already known, the only way is to strike them from cuttings; they are by no means difficult to propagate in this manner, though certainly not so easy as a Geranium or a Chrysanthemum. The necessary materials are, some good sandy peat, some pure white silver-sand, and two or three clear bell-glasses, together with a rather warmer house to place the cutting pots in than the green-house. The best time is when the plants have plenty of young shoots upon them, which generally happens about the end of May. The best cuttings are such as are growing on the side-shoots, because these are not so gross and full of sap as the leading branches. The shoots being in a fit state to take off for cuttings, select some pots of such a size as will allow the bell-glass just to fit within them; fill the lower parts of the pots with broken potsherds for drainage, lay upon the drainage a thin layer of the rougher parts of the peat, then fill up with roughly sifted peat to within an inch of the top, and fill up the remainder with pure silver-sand; give a gentle watering from a very fine-rosed watering-pot to settle the and; then prepare the cuttings.

Take them off about 1¼ inch long, trim off the lower leaves carefully with a very sharp knife, without injuring the bark; set the bell-glass upon the sand to make a mark, and within that mark put in the cuttings in neat rows across the pot, keeping each variety to itself. Proceed till the number desired to be multiplied is all planted; then give a second gentle watering, to settle the sand close to the cuttings; let them stand half an hour in gentle heat, shading them every day when the sun shines, also let the glasses be wiped dry every morning for a month, and by that time the cuttings will begin to grow. To check them from drawing up weakly, uncover them for an hour or two every morning; and when they are rooted, remove them into a cooler house for three or four weeks, leaving the glasses off in dull weather, and shading them from hot sunshine; by that time they will be fit to pot off. If there is a considerable number, and room is scarce, they may be put into 8-inch pots, four in a pot, and allowed to remain in them till the following spring. When they are potted off out of the cutting-pot, place them in a cold frame close to the glass, and shade till they are fairly established.

To cause them to form branches close to the pots, nip off the tops as soon as they begin to grow afresh; and when they have filled the small pots with roots, re-pot them, and afterwards treat them in the same manner as the established plants. - T. Appleby, in London Gardeners' Chronicle.