When planting is anticipated, the formation of a good compost heap should meet immediate attention. Sides of old fences, where grass and weeds have remained for years undisturbed, or old meadow bottoms, afford a soil of the best description as a basis for such a purpose. Mixed with a fourth-part of fresh manure, and frequently turned over to assist decomposition, they form a suitable compost for any description of tree or shrub. When it is a desideratum to hasten the decay of such material, it may be watered with a solution of potash. One pound of potash will be enough for a cubic yard of soil. It should be dissolved and used in as much water as will thoroughly wet the whole mass. This will not only render it fit for use in a few weeks, but also enhances its value, potash being largely appropriated by plants, independent of its decomposing agency in the soil.

The pleasure and satisfaction derived from the contemplation of trees in a cultivated state, depends upon the evidences of health and vigor which they exhibit. A well-formed, free growing tree is at all times an object of beauty, while a stunted, moss covered one is as certain to suggest ideas of impoverished soil, or mismanagement on the part of the cultivator. The nature and condition of the soil is therefore an all-important consideration; with regard to the latter quality, freedom from superfluous water and aeration should be secured. Although perhaps not absolutely necessary in all cases, yet it may safely be laid down as a rule that all soils are benefited by judicious draining. It has been said that draining was really injurious in a climate where droughts are of frequent occurrence, or in soils of a sandy or gravelly character. Experience, however, proves the reverse: it has been shown, time and again, that sandy soils are more productive and less liable to suffer from drouth when properly aerated by underground drains, as they increase the porosity of the soil and consequently enhance its capabilities for absorbing moisture and holding water in suspension within its pores.

Clayey soils are equally improved by this method of underground ventilation; an adhesive subsoil is formed into a compact surface immediately below the cultivated stratum, which retards the downward extension of roots, and prevents the admission of the various gases useful for building up the vegetable structure. Air is indispensable to the growth of plants, and must have free access to the roots and their surrounding soil. The soil must be sufficiently porous to part readily with water, other wise air is in a great degree excluded. A farther advantage is gained from a perfect system of drainage and increased porosity in the soil, in the ammonia and carbonic acid conveyed into it by every shower. Rain-water absorbs these gases in its passage through the atmosphere, and the soil has the property of retaining them as the water percolates through it. Air is also a principal agent in decomposition. There are many unproductive soils that really contain all the elements of fertility, but in the absence of decomposition they are useless for the purposes of vegetable growth. In the absence of air and water, substances may remain unchanged, but under their combined action the hardest rock must change and decay.

When we reflect that about nine-tenths of the whole bulk of plants is made up of gaseous matters, we find sufficient reason for the luxuriance of plants in aerated soils, and the necessity of securing them these conditions.

The great secret of getting trees into rapid and vigorous growth lies in the prepation of the soil. Pits ought to be dug out not less than six feet across and from eighteen inches to two feet in depth. The surface soil should be thrown out and all bad and inferior subsoil removed and replaced by an equal portion of prepared compost. The difference in five years growth between trees thus provided and those planted in pits half that size, is quite surprising. Carelessness in planting indicates itself for many years, in the numerous dead branches, short, stunted-looking growth, moss-covered bark, and frequently by the death of the plant, while those planted in thoroughly prepared ground, if removed with ordinary care, scarcely receive a check or show symptoms of having been disturbed.

It is a common error, and a very pardonable one, for those who are anxious to produce immediate effect, to plant the largest sized trees that can be procured. It is quite possible to remove trees of very great age and size successfully. We have well-authenticated instances of the removal of trees 300 years of age, and I have seen a large plantation successfully transplanted after 30 years growth; but to ensure success in these extreme cases involves an expense which few would be willing to incur. Neither is it practicable to bestow the same care and attention on trees that are purchased at a distant nursery and have to undergo the perils and casualties of transportation. There must be a certain proportionate balance maintained between the roots and branches, and when the roots of large trees are severely shortened, the branches must also be reduced to a corresponding degree. The question of size is therefore dispensed with. So well is this fact understood in Scotland that the nurserymen there, annually commit to the flames thousands of pine, Norway spruce, • larch, etc., from three to five feet in height, which have out-grown a saleable size, and for which there is no demand.

All plants are removed with least check when young, and a uniform, vigorous and satisfactory plantation is most readily obtained by early removal.

(To be continued).

When And How To Plant Trees #1

By William Saunders, Germantown. (concluded from page 555 of last volume).

The importance of air to the roots of plants, and the necessity for placing them under its influence, has originated the off-repeated advice, "Never set a plant deeper than it was before removal." The maxim is worth repetition. The collar, or neck of a plant, that is, the point from whence the stem and roots proceed in opposite directions, should be kept on a level with the surface. The natural growth of the roots of different trees will indicate the treatment they should receive. The pine and fir tribes seldom strike deep roots; they should be carefully spread out and slightly covered. Those that form strong perpendicular roots, as oak, hickory, pear, etc, should be planted accordingly, without bending or spreading any of the roots.

The most difficult to transplant are those which form fewest fibry, or small roots; every care should, therefore, be taken with such; all jagged and bruised ends cut smoothly across, to hasten the formation of young fibres. The roots are similar to the branches - pruning increases the quantity of shoots. Hence the more frequently a tree is removed, the less risk attends the operation.

In planting, care should be taken to imbed every root and fibre with soil; avoid the injurious custom of swaying the plant about, or shaking it up and down, with a view to settle the soil among the fibres. A portion of finely divided soil should be thrown over the roots and carefully introduced by hand into all the crevices formed by the roots. The plant will now be firm, and, unless large and heavy-topped, will not require staking, which, unless closely watched, injures the bark, and not unfrequently induces disease.

It is seldom necessary, at least with deciduous trees, to apply water at the time of planting. There is much harm done to recently planted trees by the application of what are termed "copious waterings." The soil, at planting seasons, is generally moist enough for the preservation and growth of the roots, and anything more is injurious rather than beneficial. Evergreens require different management in this respect; they have an extensive leaf-surface to supply with moisture; and if the soil has been shaken away from the roots at removal, or the season be dry, they should receive a thorough watering.

It is an old practice, and a very safe one, especially with large-sized trees, to pour water into the holes until the soil is rendered to a mortar-like consistency; the water carries the soil into every crevice, and imbeds every root. When properly managed in this way, a dry spell, during the latter end of July, will be found a good time to remove large-sized evergreens, provided the roots are not exposed for any length of time during the operation. Before being finally filled, the water should be allowed to settle, and always fill the holes with reference to a sinkage, greater or less, of coarse, according to the depth of fresh soil; it is better that the tree should stand slightly elevated, rather than appear lower than the surrounding surface.

The summer treatment of newly-planted trees requires notice. It is well known that after a continuation of dry weather, all crops, and trees of large size, are checked in growth. When such results are visible upon well-rooted trees, it is evident that recently planted ones must suffer a still greater check. To overcome this difficulty, we must first get a supply of moisture in the soil, and then keep it there. Preparing deep holes, and breaking up the subsoil, effect the former, and stirring the surface, or mulching, the latter. It has been well proved that stirring the soil, so as to insure a loose surface, is highly beneficial to all growing crops. Air is admitted to act more perfectly upon the substances from which plants derive their nourishment; and, in dry weather, the escape of moisture is prevented; the loose soil acts as a mulching. Where the surface is compact, the sun's rays dry the ground to a greater depth than they do where it is loose. When the particles of the soil are in close contact, the uppermost, parched by the son, extract humidity from those immediately under them; and these again from others still lower.

On the contrary, when the surface is loose and well pulverized, it may lose its moisture rapidly and become dry; yet, from imperfect cohesion with the inferior portion, the latter cannot readily communicate its moisture. The loose surface soil having its pores filled with air, becomes an interposing medium which protects the under stratum from the drying effects of the sun's rays.

It is not only in dry weather that a compact surface is injurious. All the rain which falls during summer is fully required for the growth of vegetation, and, perhaps, would be found amply sufficient, provided the ground was properly trenched and drained. But when the surface is compact, and baked into a hard crust, the rains escape without penetrating to any useful depth into the soil. A loose surface is, therefore, one of the most efficient preventives of evaporation, and the simplest and cheapest kind of mulching that can be used.