To accomplish this the following means must be successively employed.

"1. Prune the branches of the most vigorous parts very short, and those of the weak parts long. We know that the sap is attracted by the leaves. The removal of a large number of wood-buds from the vigorous parts, deprives these parts of the leaves which these buds would have produced; consequently the sap is attracted there in less quantities, and the growth thereby diminished. The feeble parts being pruned long, present a great number of buds, which produce a large surface of leaves, and these attract the sap and acquire a vigorous growth. This principle holds good in all trees, under whatever form they may be conducted.

"2. Leave a large quantity of fruit on the strong part, and remove the whole, or greater part, from the feble. We know already that the fruit has the property of attracting to it the sap from the roots, and of employing it entirely to its own growth. The necessary result of this is, what we are about to point out, viz: that all the sap which arrives in the strong parts, will be absorbed by the fruits, and the wood there, in consequence, will make but little growth, while on the feeble part, deprived of fruits, the sap will all be appropriated by the growing parts, and they will increase in size and strength.

"3. Bend thi strong parts and keep the weak erect. The more erect the branches and stem are, the greater will be the flow of sap to the growing parts; hence, the feeble parts being erect, attract much more sap than the strong parts inclined, and, consequently, make a more vigorous growth, and soon recover their balance. This remedy is more especially applied to espalier trees.

"4. Remove from the vigorous parts the superfluous shoots as early in the season as possible, and from the feeble parts as late as possible. The fewer the number of young shoots there are on a branch, the fewer there are of leaves, and consequently the less is the sap attracted there. Hence, in leaving the young shoots on the feeble part, their leaves attract the sap there, and induce a vigorous growth.

"5. Pinch early the soft extremities of the shoots on the vigorous parts, and as late as possible on the feeble parts, excepting always any shoots which may be too vigorous for their position. By thus pinching early the strong part, the flow of sap to that point is checked, and naturally turns to the growing parts that have not been pinched; this remedy is applicable to trees in all forms.

"6. Lay in the strong shoots on the trellis early, and leave the feeble parts loose as long as possible. Laying in the strong parts obstructs the circulation of the sap in them, and consequently favors the weak parts that are loose. This is only applicable to espaliers.

"7. In espalier trees, giving the feeble parts the benefits of the light, and confining the strong parts more in the shade, restores a balance, for light is the agent which enables leaves to perform their functions and their action on the roots, and the parts receiving the greatest proportion of it acquire the roost vigorous development.

2. "The sap acts with greater force and produces more vigorous growth on a branch or shoot pruned short, than on one pruned long. This is easily explained. The sap acting on two buds must evidently produce a greater development of wood on them, than if it were divided between fifteen or twenty buds.

"It follows from this, that if we wish to obtain wood branches, we prune short, for vigorous shoots produce few fruit buds. On the contrary, if we wish to obtain fruit branches, we prune long, because the most slender or feeble shoots are the most disposed to fruit.

"Another application of this principle is to prune short for a year or two, such trees or parts as have become enfeebled by overbearing. (This principle deserves especial attention, as its application is of great importance!)

3. "The sap tending always to the extremities of the shoots causes the terminal bud to push with greater vigor than the laterals. According to this principle, when we wish a pro-longment of a stem or branch, we should prune to a vigorous wood bud, and leave no production that can interfere with the action of the sap on it.

4. "The more the sap is obstructed in its circulation, the more likely it will be to produce fruit buds. This principle is founded on a fact to which we have already had occasion to refer, viz: that the sap circulating slowly is subjected to a more complete elaboration in the tissues of the tree, and becomes better adapted to the formation of fruit buds.

"This principle can be applied to produce the following result: When we wish to produce fruit buds on a branch, we prevent a free circulation of the sap by bending the branches, or by making annular or circular incisions on it; and on the contrary, when we wish to change a fruit branch into a wood branch, we give it a vertical position, or prune it to two or three buds, on which we concentrate the action of the sap and thus induce their vigorous development.

5. "The haves serve to prepare the sap absorbed by the roots for the nourishment of the tree, and aid the formation of buds on the shoots, All trees, therefore, deprived of their leaves are liable to perish. This principle shows how dangerous it is to remove a large quantity of leaves from trees, under the pretext of aiding the growth or ripening of fruits, for the leaves are the nourishing organs, and the trees deprived of them cannot continue to grow, neither can the fruit; and the branches so stripped will have feeble, ill-formed buds, which will, the following year, produce a weak and sickly growth.

6. "Whire the buds of any shoot or branch do not develops before the age of two years, they can only be forced into activity by a very close pruning, and in some cases, as the pach, this even will often fail. This last principle shows the importance of pruning the main branches of espaliers particularly, so as to ensure the development of the buds of their successive sections, and to preserve well the side shoots thus produced, for without this, the interior of the tree will become naked and unproductive, and a remedy will be very difficult."

The nicer operations of pruning and training are taught in France by means of lectures, with the trees before the pupils - the only rapid mode of teaching a practical art somewhat difficult of explanation upon paper. If our different states would establish agricultural schools, as they should do, the teacher of practical horticulture should have the whole modern art of pruning fruit trees at his fingers ends, and every pupil would, by the aid of a few specimens in different stages of growth, and a few small subjects to operate upon with the pruning-knife, soon become an accomplished master of the art. It is something, however, that must be pursued con amort. Mr. Barry very properly says: "It is not, by any means, labor that is required, but attention, that the most delicate hand can perform; fifteen or twenty minutes at a time, say three times a week, during active growth, will be sufficient to examine every shoot on a moderate collection of garden trees; for the eye very soon becomes trained so well to the work, that a glance at a tree will detect the parts that arc either too strong or too weak, or that in any way require attention. This is one of the most interesting features in the management of garden trees. We are never allowed to forget them.

From day to day they require some attention, and offer some new point of interest that attracts us to them, and augments our solicitude for their prosperity, until it actually grows into enthusiasm."

Though Mr. Barry is in many parts of the work plain and perspicuous, yet in others he glances so hastily and in so general a manner at important operations of culture, as to leave the majority of readers for wr work is intended, somewhat in the dark. For instance, root pruning is occasionally of great value as a remedial process in checking the growth of our luxuriant fruit trees, and bringing them into a bearing state. The following are the author's whole remark's on the subject: