Dear Sir, - I understand that you are a member of the Imperial Society Of Natural History of Russia, and that their diploma was conferred upon you for the distinction that you have gained by your knowledge of vegetable physiology, and especially for that branch of it which pertains to the propagation of plants.

As this is now a subject of particular practical interest, I have been hoping to see the valuable information that you possess, together with an account of your experiments, placed before the public.

For my own immediate advantage I venture to ask a few questions, which, for the general benefit! I hope you may find it consistent with yonr convenience to answer through the medium of your very valuable journal.

Are trees which come from the nursery with a few large, long roots, better than those with many fibrous roots? And if the long roots are better, should they be preserved and planted with their entire length? I have in mind particularly pear trees; and concerning pear and apple stocks, I would ask the same question, shall they be cut back severely, to induce the formation of fibrous roots?

Are our hardy native vines, Delaware, etc., made tender by propagation under glass?

Are vines, well grown in pots, one season, from single eyes, better or worse than those grown in open air?

Is there any special advantage in planting vines two or three years old, over vines of one year's vigorous and healthy growth?

Are the "best layers" the best plants for special purposes; for instance, the immediate production of fruit, and hardy wood for propagating purposes?

Are the quantity and quality of the wood of vines indicative of the quantity and quality of the roots, and vice versa?

Perhaps I have asked too many questions, but far less than I wish to have your experience upon; and doubtless many inquirers will be benefited with me by your answers.

Very respectfully yours, Geo. H. Goodwin.

[The above is one of the two or three articles saved from the fire, and we therefore regard it with peculiar favor. It is true that we have the diploma, (in the most uncouth Slavonic char-actere;) but, as we have never shown it except to a few friends, we do not know how it came to the knowledge of an entire stranger, as you have been up to the time of writing this letter. The results of our investigations and experiments we shall publish when we shall have more fully completed them. In the mean time, we shall endeavor to answer your questions as explicitly as they are put.

Trees with a "few large, long roots," are not only not "better than those with many fibrous roots," but they are those that are to be avoided, except as a dernier resort. When you do get such, shorten them in, to induce the formation of secondary or fibrous roots; coiling the root will often produce the same results. Prune the head of the tree at the same time. This will apply to all your trees.

Hardy native vines are not made tender by being propagated under glass under proper conditions; on the contrary, the wood of such vines, when properly grown by an intelligent propagator, is firmer and better ripened than in most vines grown in the open air. They are, consequently, in better condition for planting.

A vine grown one season in a pot, from a single eye, is, in our estimation, the perfection of a young vine; and it is better grown under glass than in the open air, because of the better condition of the roots.

There is no special advantage in planting vines two or three years old; some think they will get more wood from old vines to propagate from; but we think there is a fallacy here. Briefly, we prefer vigorous young vines, one and two years old, well furnished with secondary roots. We would choose such a vine, one year old, in preference to one three or more years old.

For the "immediate production of fruit," and "hardy wood to propagate from," a good layer is a good thing; but a tad layer is a bad thing for these or any ether purposes. A good layer is one well furnished with secondary roots all along and close up to the wood: one not possessing these conditions we'advise you to avoid at any price.

The quantity and quality of the wood are indicative of the quantity and quality of the roots. A firm, short-jointed, well-ripened cane, indicates an abundance of healthy secondary roots. • We have a greater control over the roots of a plant than is generally supposed, and this fact ought to influence our practice more than is usually the case.

We hope these replies will be in some measure satisfactory to you. They are necessarily brie, but you can rely upon them in buying and planting your trees and vines. - Ed].

Calmdale, December 22, 1860.

Mr. P. B. Mead, - Yours of 20th is a real stunner. So the consuming element (fire) don't even spare the Horticulturist. Why don't it spend its fury upon the useless trash in the literary line, and leave such noble works as the Horticulturist alone? But as it is done, the next best thing is to be up and doing again. Since my humble attempt at lending a hand has shared along with the wreck, I will repeat it. The simplicity of taking impressions of apples or pears will be apparent to any one when they once try the experiment I herewith send, and even though it be not new to many, it may be new to some.

Cut the fruit lengthwise exactly through the middle, halving the stem, and also equally dividing the blossom end. Now you have your plate. Rub ink over the half, and clap it upon your paper, which should lay on an even surface. Press moderately on the apple, and with a knife blade see that the stem be pressed down; also the little points of the blossom end. Any one accustomed to coloring could make a very neat thing of it I have an album of these kind of impressions, under each of which is written the date of ripening; the name of the variety; of the person of whom I got the fruit, as well as his place of residence; which is often of value when I desire to get scions, in case it be a variety ripening out of the budding or grafting season. Herewith I send you a few impressions, taken to show you how it looks; from which you can best judge whether it is worth a notice or not.

P. S. - A pear should not be too ripe, or it will not bear sufficient pressure to print well.

Yours truly, S. M.

[Thank you for your ready response, and your sympathy. Fire, in this world at least, seems to make no distinction between the good and the bad. We are "going ahead" again, however. The impressions sent are nicely done, and the process is one which will be useful to many of our readers; it is better than a mere outline. We would suggest the use of printer's ink instead of writing ink, with the paper slightly moistened; or India ink - both of which, we think, would spread better on the fruit. We had intended to give one of the impressions sent, but it is too late now. - Ed].