It will be well to give a few brief hints on its propagation. We find that grafting is the best; and the stocks used are healthy one year old, seedling peach, growing in nursery rows. The best time to commence grafting is when the stocks commence to put forth their leaves in spring. We head down the stocks close to the ground, and prepare the scion in the old-fashioned style of cleft grafting, split the crown and insert the scion, tie with grafting cloth. When a row is grafted, we draw the soil carefully up to the top bud. In this way we do not lose scarcely a single one. We prefer this mode to root grafting, as we find it more successful, and, in fact, makes a more healthy and free growing tree. Last fall we tried fall grafting in a very small way, more for experiment than anything else. We grafted one dozen Wild Goose Plums about the last of October. They did very well, only a few died. The weather was very dry at the same time, and neglected to draw the soil to the scions. This was the cause of some of them failing. But though some success may be gained in fall grafting, we would not recommend it to any extent. The soil best adapted to plum culture is a mixture of clay and loam, with a stiff clay subsoil.

And if thoroughly subsoiled before planting, no other cultivation is required, unless to keep the big weeds and grass cleared from around the trees. And, for our climate, the clump system is the best mode to be successful in the culture of the plum - that is to say, plant ten feet apart, without any regard to any straight line regularities. The soil should never be cultivated, or even stirred around the trees.

The Wild Goose Plum may be relied on, and is well adapted to the Southern climate. - Rural Alabamian.