A few plants may be retained in the greenhouse, with a view to have them in flower earlier; indeed, I place some of my bulbs in a moderately close, warm house early in March, and I manage to have them in flower early in August; others I retard, to prolong their flowering until October; but a season's practice will be the best guide in this matter. These Lilies are not liable to suffer from the attacks of insects, but the green-fly will occasionally make its appearance upon such of the plants as may have been kept over warm. If so, fumigate at once with tobacco-smoke, or wash the leaves with weak tobacco-water. I have said nothing about soil, for they are not very particular in this respect. I use fresh fibrous loam and peat in equal portions, with a sufficient quantity of sand to render it porous; if peat cannot be had, use leaf-soil. Some say, however, that the flowers are much higher colored in peat. The only thing requiring further notice is, to be careful of the flowers when you have got them - syringing overhead, or a damp stagnant atmosphere, will spoil them, just as it would a light-colored Camellia flower. I once lost a fine head of bloom in this way. If you are anxious to propagate them, it may be effected by means 'of the scales of the bulbs.

Fill a pan with soil similar to that recommended for growing them in; lay the scales upon the surface, and sprinkle a little fine soil over them; give a little water, and place the pan in a close warm atmosphere. This is, however, a part of the business which had better be left to professional hands, and, except the amateur be proficient in such work, he will not be very successful. If properly managed, they will soon increase by natural means to more than can be accommodated. I may just state, by way of conclusion, that, in my opinion, these fine Mies have one fault - they produce their flowers too far from the surface of the soil. I have tried to remedy this by placing three smaller bulbs in a pot with the principal one at the first potting, and I think this improves their appearance when in flower. With this exception, they are splendid productions, and deserve the most extensive cultivation; grown in masses in large pots, or in conservatory borders, they are surpassingly grand, and they are quite within the means of the amateur.

Don't be satisfied with your treatment unless your full-grown bulbs produce from twenty-five to thirty flowers upon a single stem. - Autumnalis?

Japan Lilies #1

The following remarks on the treatment of this magnificent family of Lilies, apply in this country just the same as in England. We have been delighted with their superb flowering the past dry autumn, in the open ground. The largest and finest bed we have ever seen was in the grounds of Messrs. Hovey & Co., of Boston, in September last. Mr. Ho vet seemed to believe that he had actually produced a cross between them and the Tiger Lily; but we saw no evidence of the fact, to satisfy us that this was so. We do not say that it is impossible, but we believe it has not yet been done. The Japan Lilies from seed vary much in foliage and flowers:

"Few plants are more useful than the different varieties of Japan Lilies. They come into bloom at a time when our New Holland plants are over, and when an actual paucity of flowering plants exists, wherewith to decorate the conservatory and greenhouse; and what really can be more suitable They produce a gorgeous display either in-doors or out; and as they are quite hardy they may be liberally planted in the open borders; they thus constitute one of our best autumnal flower garden plants. Their propagation is simple and certain. The bulbs may be separated, and each scale will eventually form a new bulb. This separation should be effected when the flower stems are withered; the scales should be stuck into pans of silver sand, and placed in a cold frame or pit After remaining one season in this position, they should be planted in a prepared bed of peat soil, and a little silver sand intermixed with it; thus treated the bulbs will soon grow large enough to flower. The cultivation of them in pots is by no means difficult Immediately when the bulbs go to rest in the autumn is the proper time to repot them.

By no means destroy the old roots, but carefully place them amongst the fresh soil If large examples for particular display are required, large pots may be employed, and half a dozen large flowering bulbs placed in each pot The soil I use is rough peat The pots should be well drained, and the crowns of the bulb just covered with the soil; when potted they should be placed in a cold pit or frame, in order to prevent the soil from freezing, although frost will not injure the bulbs. Where room under glass is an object in winter, they may be plunged in the open air in coal ashes, in a manner similar to potted Hyacinths. I have at this time a large number in flower, which have never been under glass until within these few days; they have sustained no injury from exposure. There is scarcely any plant which is so much benefited by liquid manure as the Lily, more especially before expanding its flowers. If used in a clear state, and considerably diluted, this water alone may be applied for at least a month before it comes into flower. If the object should be out-door cultivation entirely, I should recommend them to be planted in beds; their effect is exceedingly grand.

Excavate the soil 18 inches deep, and fill in the bottom a foot deep with very coarse peat, intermixed with one-fifth of decayed manure or leaf-mould. The remaining six inches may be entirely peat If the bulbs are large enough to bloom, plant them twelve inches apart every way, and if beds of each kind are well contrasted one with the other the effect will be magnificent" S. in Gard. Chron.

Japan Lilies #1

A friend writes us that "the past two years he has been particularly observant of two beds of Japan lilies in a neighbor's garden, - one growing in the ordinary open exposed garden bed - the other planted among some rock-work on the north side of the house. The first blooms a few days the earliest, but the flowers are soon gone, while the latter continues in bloom nearly six weeks".

This is a significant hint to planters of hardy bulbs, as it means that the latter bed has moisture and depth for the roots, sustaining their growth for a long period, while the former, by reason of open exposure, are enhanced perhaps in period of blooms, but from the heat are brought rapidly to maturity. Planters of lilies, therefore, should, in order to have abundant and long-continued blooms, dig the ground very deep, and in spring, or just before blooming time, shield the surface by a light surface mulching.