It is generally supposed that grafting must be done early in the spring, or it will not succeed; the rule is to graft before vegetation has begun. We have at various times practiced grafting up to the beginning of the second week in June, and with pretty uniform success. The chief difficulty to contend with is to keep the grafts from drying up on the one hand, or to prevent them from growing. Where an ice house is at hand, the difficulty is somewhat under control. Early in the season we received valuable grafts from Mr. Wilder, Dr. Brinckle, and others. Our purpose was to set them at once; but absence and other causes made it quite impossible, and they remained in the cellar, covered with sand, till the 28th of May, when they were put in, some of them being quite dry and somewhat shriveled. They were cut into lengths of three or four inches, and most of them inserted by the common mode of split grafting. With some, however, the usual T cut for budding was made in the bark, the graft cut sloping at the end, inserted under the bark, and secured by tieing. All were thinly coated with grafting wax. Upwards of fifty grafts (apples and pears) were put in, and, with one single exception, are growing as finely as could be wished.

The exception is a graft of two year old wood, and is breaking rather feebly, which was to be expected. We call attention to this late grafting, not as a remarkable novelty, but that our readers may know that late grafting may be successfully performed. Valuable grafts are sometimes thrown away, because it is supposed to be too late to put them in. In regard to the ripening of the wood, we have never had a late graft winter killed. There is no doubt a limit beyond which we can not go; but that limit we have not yet ascertained. The grafts put in by the T cut are growing quite as well as those put in the split The T cut is more rapidly performed, but neither process requires much time.