What kind of manure is best for Strawberries? What should be the relative proportion of staminate to pistilate plants when planted in rows or in alternate strips? Is McAooy's Superior a valuable Strawberry or not? What kind of flowers does it produce? Please name some of the best varieties for general cultivation. (1)

How are stocks grafted in the winter preserved ? What time in the spring should they be planted out, and if they succeed and grow well what height will they attain the first season? How many slocks can a man well skilled in the business graft in a day, and upon an average how many will grow? (2)

When is the best time to cut grafts for root-grafting in the winter, and what do grafts of the best standard varieties of Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, etc., generally cost ? (8)

Do nurserymen cultivate trees expressly for grafts, or do they prune limbs off of the trees that they expect to dispose of? (4)

I Jiave heard it said that grafts or buds of the Heart Cherries will not grow on stocks of the Morello or Dukes. Please give a little information on this subject, and inform me what kind of stocks should be used for Heart, Bigar-reau, Morello, and Duke Cherries ? (5) A SUBSCRIBER.

(1) Yon will find answers to your Strawberry questions in another part of this number.

(2) Covered up in sand, and kept in a cool, dry cellar. Plant out as soon as the ground is in good working order. Two feet is a good growth for root-grafted Apples, the first year, in this climate. A good grafter can set 2,000 a day; and, as a general thing, seventy-five to eighty per cent will grow.

(8) We prefer to cut grafts here in the month of December, but it can be done safely from the fall of the leaf until the buds begin to swell As to prices, you must consult the nurserymen. See our advertising pages.

(4) They do cultivate trees expressly for grafts in some cases, but when necessary, they cut from trees intended for sale.

(5) The two best stocks for Cherries of all sorts, are the Maxuard and Mahaleb. Hearts, Dukes, and Morellos will all take on both these. The Mahaleb is used for dwarf trees oue great experience In the cultivation of fruit trees, vines, &.c., has Induced me to art tor the following information. Why are Grape vines that are trained on the ground to propagate from, or for other purposes, freer from mildew than those trained on elevated frames t Is it because nitre gainers In the shade of them, as under old buildings, and thus affording a specific against mildew, or is something else the cause ? An answer to the above is repectfuDy solicited, ss it may assist me in an experiment I am engaged in, of which, if successful, you shall be duly apprised. & OsCAR CROSS. - Sandy Kill, Wash. Co., N. Y.

"We know it to be a fact; that Grapes allowed to run on the ground are lees liable to mildew than those upon raised trellises. We can not speak positively as to the caure. It may be owing to the more moist atmosphere that surrounds them on the ground, and their beiug less exposed to sudden changes of temperature. Some experiments made in the south of Franc, when the vine disease (a sort of mildew) was making great havoc, proved that the vine was safer on the ground, and more especially on a grassy surface, than on the trellis. The subject is worthy of investigation.

ONE of the boundaries of my place of residence Is a high, steep bank of gravel and sand, about 160 or 170 feet long, and from 15 to 80 feet high. The expense of covering it with loam and seeding It down would be more than I wish to Incur. Is there not some method of covering it with vegetation, other than that -such as planting cuttings of some quickly growing tree thickly over the surface, thus shading the surface and gradually enriching it by decomposition of leaves? What trees grow naturally in such situations Or if there is any method of attaining my object, other than the above, you will confer a favor by making it known in Ue next number of the Horticulturist D. L J. - Birmingham, Conn.

We do not know of any quickly-growing tree that can be grown from cuttings in such soil. It strikes us that the best and quickest way to clothe it with vegetation, would be to plant small trees of Larch, Spruce, and Pine, over it, making a sort of bed of good earth for each. This might be done with trifling labor and expense, and small plants cost but little. Perhaps some of our correspondents can suggest something better.

I herewith send you some pieces of Apple tree covered with Insects or the deposit of Insects. It made its appearance on a few trees some years ago, and has been Increasing ever since. It commences its work sometime in June. The leaves quickly die as far as its work extends. I have within the last few days noticed some of the same sort of work upon some of my Pear trees, Currants, etc. As I know but little about insects In general, and the ones alluded to in particular, any information respecting it, as to the best method of destroying it, or preventing its appearance, either through the Horticulturist or by letter will be thankfully received. A SubscRIBER. - EUdon, Todd Co., Ky.

The shoots inclosed were so dried and blackened that we could form no accurate opinion as to the cause of the disease. They had all the appearance of shoots of the Apple affected with what is known as fire-blight, in which they turn suddenly black, as if burnt; and exude small globules of sticky, sour, diseased sap.

I INCLOSE three gooseberries punctured and containing the young larva) of the insect previously described to you. My whole crop is again destroyed, amounting to several bushels. I am inclined to think it a species of curculio, if not the real curculio; if so, it appears strange to me that they never were attacked before the two past seasons, when the curculio has been outrageous as long as I can remember and frequently more so than the present season.

I also inclose two coocoons, and three insects - a species of canker worm - in the winged state that will soon destroy.

I will give a short description of the worm: - When fully grown, rather more than an inch in length, yellowish green and speekled with black; when the bashes ape shaken they will suspend themselves by a fine thread and remain In a dangling position until all is quiet, when they will ascend again by the same thread; when the season of feasting is oyer they suspend themselves by a thread to the ground, enter it from half to three-quarters of an inch, form a coccoon, and in about ten or twelve days eotne out the fly and return to the bushes again. By shaking the bushes when the leaves are on they will dislodge themselves and fly for protection in all directions, hiding among any rubbish they can find. I have never seen them before this season, and can giro no further information from personal experience at present, but am on the alert. I found them trespassing upon my bushes, and immediately declared war against them. I sallied out two or three times a day, armed with an old tin dish, gave the bushes a shake, and after they were dangling in their suspended form I could easily secure them in the old tin dish. I have no donbt I destroyed several pecks of the worms.

I have been Informed that where they once made their appearance they never foiled to annually destroy the Currant and Gooseberry, and all the remedies that could be applied proved of no avail I cannot bear the thoughts of dispensing with such refrigerating luxuries as Ribes and Crispa, SamuEl StoNER. - humberstone, C. W.

The grub within the fruit is undoubtedly the curculio, but the winged insect and the chrysalis are the Gooseberry caterpillar. We have known them to be very troublesome at Toronto; but if they are sharply looked after, and taken when quite small, they can be subdued before they do much injury. Clean lime water thrown on them with a syringe, - and tobacco water, as we have frequently recommended to kill aphides, - or whale oil soap and water, mixed at the rate of about two pounds of soap to fifteen gallons of water, - will drive them off; and where any or all these fail to clear the bushes, hand picking should complete the work. The leaves should be examined, on the under sides, both in autumn and spring; and all eggs destroyed.