In the October number of the Hhorticulturiest for 1852, page 459, chloride of calcium was said to be used by French horticulturists to absorb the moisture of fruit rooms; and in a note upon the same page, chloride of calcium was said to be obtained by heating common chloride of lime. The October number for 1853, page 450, gives the same remedy for superabundant moisture in fruit rooms. Now, chloride of lime, as it absorbs moisture, evolves chlorine gas in such quantity as to impart its own flavor to every thing eatable exposed to its atmosphere. Even after saturation with moisture, and being dried by as much heat as hickory wood and a tin plate kitchen stove can supply, it filled the fruit room with chlorine gas as completely as before. If there be a chloride of calcium (or of any thing else), which will absorb moisture without giving out chlorine gas, by informing where it can be had, and at what price, you will very much oblige at least one Subscriber.

P. S. - If no compound of chlorine will answer the purpose, is there no other remedy for dampness, without changing the temperature!

We have not used the chloride of calcium, and therefore can not say whether it affects the flavor of fruit or not. It can be procured at the druggists at about one shilling per pound, or perhaps less. We have used fresh unslaked lime, which absorbs moisture, and does not, that we are aware of, affect the flavor of fruits.

How is the best way of vegetating Sugar Maple, Mountain Ash, American Larch, and Strawberry Tree (Euonymue Americanus) seeds! W. - Galesburg.

The Maple and Larch seeds, gathered this season, may be sown next spring, as they grow the first season. The Euonymus and Mountain Ash should be mixed with earth, and be allowed to remain so until next spring.

Will you, through the Horticulturist, give your opinion on the propriety of setting out an orchard of winter apples on the Doucain stock! My idea is to avoid the high winds of this western country, that shake the trees before the apples are ripe. E. Dayton. - Huntly Grove, III.

You can have an orchard of low-headed trees on the Doucain or common stock - would prefer the latter for orchard.

Will the embanking or the ridging process for the nursery rows, for winter, be advisable in a nursery of stocks budded close to the ground - Peach, Cherry, and Apple stocks - the rows crossing sections of each! Would the earth over the bud serve to protect or to smother it! The soil is not particularly inclined to heave. M.

We would not earth up so high as to cover the buds; we have seen much injury done by it.

Answers To Correspondents #1

I bind you by express a small box containing a stem of my Chautauque Perpetual strawberry, found a year since in the field. It has been in bearing since June just as you see it now - blossoms, green, and ripe fruit What is it! and is it like any of the other Perpetuals! The sets of this year are also in blossom and fruit L. Risley. - Fredonia, N. Y.

The fruit came quite fresh, and has all the appearance of an Alpine strawberry.

Answers To Correspondents #2

BEING a subscriber to your valuable Horticulturist, I beg to say that the recommendations I hare frequently seen and heard of ashes being a preventation against the Peach tree borer, cannot be depended on. I careftiny examined my trees last autumn, and cleared out and fully eradicated every borer I could find; and put around each tree about half a peck of ashes. Yesterday I examined the same trees, and found them nearly all affected, and from one three year old tree I extracted full a dozen borers. Therefore I conclude the only remedy is war to the knife. Is it so ? John Powell - Dayton, 0.

It is possible that the performance of some part of the process was imperfect, as it is beyond a doubt that ashes placed around the tree at the place where the borer depositee its eggs, generally prevents its attack.

I am building a cold grapery, 22 by 60 feet I have excavated three feet deep, and filled with a good compost In your opinion, is a dram necessary? If so, how made? Jams M. Taylor, Syracuse, N.Y. useful. Make it two to three feet deep below the level of the bottom of the border, and 18 or 20 inches wide, and fill with small stones, laying some sods or straw over them before the earth is laid on. The drain to be under the center of the border and carried to some outlet. or to some distance from the border. Such a mass of rich soil as a vine border soon becomes sour, unless surplus moisture can pass off freely.