Plant very early in the spring, or as soon as the frost will allow of spading the ground four inches deep, (the depth they should be planted) or deeper if the soil is light. Don't wait for fair weather. Use plenty of seed, so that they will not be more than an inch apart. Hoe the earth towards the vines a little, but do not form a ridge, and support when about six inches high, with brush five feet in length. As soon as they commence to bloom, mulch heavily close to the vines, extending a foot on each side of the row; this keeps the ground moist and cool, which is just the condition they require. In case of a drouth, they will need watering, in addition to the mulching. If the -flowers are persistently cut before the seed pods form, they will bloom until the frost kills them. If seed is wanted, they may be allowed to go to seed, but this lessens the amount of bloom, and the vine finally matures and dies. As it is well for one to grow his own seed, and be able to select such varieties as are most desirable, a good plan is to plant a few very early, as recommended, and then make another planting the first of May. These will come into bloom by the middle of July, and the early planting may then be allowed to go to seed.

The Sweet Pea luxuriates in a cool, damp soil, and in full sun, or at least should have the sun part of the day.

If the above directions are followed, there is no reason why any one should not successfully grow the Sweet Pea.

Varieties

Adonis, Butterfly, Scarlet Invincible, Blue-Edged, Crown Princess of Prussia, Black, Scarlet, Pure White, Purple, White with pink blush, Painted Lady, Fairy Queen, Pink striped Mahogany, Purple and Maroon, Red with purple striped, Pink and white striped, Lavender and pink striped, Pink and Magenta striped, Maroon with purple striped. Elmira, N. Y.

Sweet Peas

Mr. Van Aken says: "I introduce what I think will make a pleasing effect in my sweat pea row the coming season, by planting say 18 inches of the row to one distinct variety, then 6 or 8 feet of mixed varieties, then another distinct dab of a different color, and so on through the row. Take, for instance, for these dabs of distinct color, the Adonis, Scarlet Invincible, Painted Lady, White, Black, etc.

"I have a way of getting sweet peas in bloom very early out of doors, by planting the seed in flower pots in the house. Take any size pot, and fill with good soil, and plant the peas about an inch apart around the pot and near the edge, and then, by placing a brush in the centre about 2 feet long, the vines will cling to this and give ample support. If planted in February, or the first of March, they will be nearly ready to bloom by the time the spring frosts are past; and may then be turned out of the pots and placed in the open ground. These will commence to bloom from 4 to 6 weeks before the earliest spring planting in ihe ground".

Sweet Peas

Your number of January contains an article - "How to Grow Sweet Peas." If it will be of any service in your latitude, I will note my experience for the past 30 years. My hedge of sweet peas is always the admired of all admirers.

Now as to seed, I use separate colors, always giving the preference to white and scarlet; the mixed seed of most dealers being particularly deficient of these varieties.

As soon as the frost is out of the ground (sometimes have even broken through a crust) I open a trench, say 18 inches wide and 20 to 24 deep - length of spade, handle and all. This I wheel to the other end of my ground, the object being to have it to fill up the last length of the trench. I then put in the top spit of the next length and same width, and also a good dressing of cow or other strong manure, mixing well with what is already in the trench. Then the bottom of the last-named length of the trench is thrown on top of the first soil, and if poor, mixing a little half-rotten stable manure through it; and thus proceed through the length of the ground required. The condition of the soil will not allow for much dressing; therefore, I draw a furrow about 6 inches in depth, endeavoring to have most of the loose soil thrown on the north or eastern side. This protects largely from cold winds. I then sow my seed very thick, using about half pound of seed to every 20 feet of row; cover with fine compost and tread firmly in the furrow, leaving the soil around as loose and rough as possible.

As soon as the plants are nicely up, I give them a good sprinkling of slaked lime - commonly called quick-lime - and as they advance in growth earth up as required. If the weather should be very wet at any period of the growing season, I give another application of lime. If, on the other hand, a continuance of dry weather should occur, a good watering should be given; but it is seldom necessary where the plant has a good depth of soil wherein to feed. Removal of the seed pods as they form, strengthens the plant and prolongs a fine bloom. By above practice, I never fail to have magnificent blooms of glorious color and marvellous size.

An early English practice was, to sow very early in pots, and plant out as soon as weather permits; but from comparative dates of blooming, not more than four to six days was gained in their flowering. I only adopt this last method in handling new varieties. Then by sowing early in pots I am enabled to propagate from cuttings, thus increasing stock of plants, which is very desirable, as seeds of the new sorts are very expensive.

Nursery, Halifax, Nova Scotia.