Physical Features

The most strongly marked feature in the physical geography of the State of California are the chains of mountains that run parallel with the coast for hundreds of miles. There are two of these great chains, one rising abruptly almost from the sea line, like a long wall, with only here and there a shallow coast valley, as at Santa Cruz. This is known as the Coast Range. The other is the great uplifted crest of the Sierra Nevada, which through the whole length of the State, in one unbroken chain, forms the eastern horizon of the coast. This range, with its great altitude, its heavy snows, and its immense condensing power, is the source of all the important rivers of California.

These two ranges of mountains divide the lands of the State into two classes of widely differing climatic features. The humid coast valleys, lying outside of the Coast Range, facing the ocean, and marked by a comparatively great precipitation of moisture and slight evaporation, and the more arid interior valleys, lying between the two ranges and characterized by just the reverse, a light rainfall and an excessive evaporation.

The winter rain-current, which is a southwesterly wind blowing in from the sea, has to cross this Coast Range before it can reach and water the interior valleys. According to a well-known law, it parts with much of its moisture and, climbing the elevation, gives a comparatively damp and foggy climate on the ocean face of the range. After crossing the range the rain-current, thus deprived of a large portion of its moisture, passes on to give a lighter rainfall upon the level plains of the interior, until it reaches the tall line of the Sierra, where with the cold of a still greater elevation the remaining moisture is wrung out of the clouds. This winter rain-current, in its sweep inland, passes over the crest of the Coast Range in a more or less continuous sheet; yet like a vast aerial river it avails itself of every break and depression of the range to pour through in still denser volume. And it is opposite these breaks and depressions of the range that we find the line of greatest rainfall in the interior valleys, as the lower and more humid portion of the current has at these points been able to reach the interior without having its moisture wrung out in crossing the range.

The influence of the Coast Range upon the climate of the interior valleys is felt in still another way; by obstructing the inward flow of the daily sea breeze, with its moister air, its lower temperature, and the frequent night fogs, evaporation goes on in these valleys with scarcely a check the moment the rains are over.

The direction of the two ranges, the Coast and the Sierra, has also its influence, and that far from a favorable one; for by their course from north to south they leave the country open to the full sweep, both winter and summer, of the harsh, dry, parching north wind, which checks and retards all vegetation, and neutralizes the effect of much of the rainfall.

By examining the physical features described above, we find they may be changed in three ways to give a moister and more productive climate to the interior valleys, which are more fertile than the coast lands, but lack rain.

1st. Drop the Coast Range of mountains until it is practically obliterated. By doing this the great winter rain-current would no longer be obstructed in its landward flow, and the humid ocean air having ready access, evaporation would be checked and a dry hot air no longer greedily suck up the surface moisture of the soil.

2d. Keep up the elevation of the Sierra, but bring it slightly nearer the coast, so that it may condense all the moisture possible from the rain-currents.

3d. Wall the land in upon the northwest with mountains, so as to shelter it from the drying winds that now sweep over it, in winter checking and retarding, by their chill, the growth of vegetation, and in summer parching it up and blasting the tender shoots.

The above changes are exactly what have taken place in Southern California. Out of the broken confusion of the Tehichipi and Tejon mountains, where the Sierra and Coast Ranges seem to become inextricably entangled, the Sierra at length emerges and turns eastward under the local name of Sierra Madre as the northern wall of the Los Angeles and San Bernardino country, then turning southward it goes on to form the backbone of the peninsula of Lower California. Stray fragments of the Coast Range rise at different points but reach no great height. This breaking down of the coast range throws the whole valley system of the southern part of California open to the sea, making it practically a vast system of coast valleys, with the Sierra as a background. The sharp turn eastward of the coast line south of Point Conception also brings the sea nearer to the Sierra, making its influence more felt, while the deflection of the Sierra to an almost due east direction, turns it into a huge barrier, raised directly across the path of the cold, dry north wind, which sweeps the upper portion of the State. Under the shelter of its peaks, which range in elevation from 6,000 to 11,000 feet, these southern valleys nestle, looking from the snow-clad crests above them out toward the warm southern sea.

Boundaries

This highly-favored region, "beautiful for situation, the joy of the whole earth," is known by the general name of Southern California. It extends from the southern boundary line of the State northward along the coast for two hundred miles to Santa Barbara, and eastward over one hundred miles to the Sierra range. It embraces the counties of Santa Barbara, Ventura, Los Angeles, San Diego and the southern portion of San Bernardino, including within these boundaries about twenty millions of acres. Its main features are a coast plateau rising from the sea to an elevation of 1,500 feet, and numerous valleys or interior plateaus, at a greater elevation, opening into it from the mountains.

Climate

The climate of this region is as varied as the face of the country. Along the coast plateau the range of the thermometer is very slight and uniform, the extremes being 65° to 8o° in summer and 250 to 350 in winter. The following table shows the average temperature for each month, during the last five years in the central part of Los Angeles county:

January.................. 50Vi

February................ 52 1/4

March................... 53 3/4

April..................... 57

May...................... 61 1/4

June...................... 66 1/4

July......................68 1/2

August.................. 69

September............... 66 1/4

October.................. 61 1/4

November...............55

December................53

The interior plateau, owing to the greater dryness of its atmosphere and proximity to the Sierras, has a much higher range of temperature, the thermometer rising sometimes to 100°. But these extremes of temperature occur only during a few days in the year, and on account of the dryness of the atmosphere are more endurable than a much lower temperature in the Eastern States. Sultry or hot nights are unknown in any part, and sunstroke is an unheard of thing.

Wet Season

There are but two seasons, the wet and the dry. The former begins in November and terminates in April, and the latter extends from April to November. The wet season can be best compared to one of the pleasantest of Eastern springs, as it is the season of green grass, wild flowers, budding trees, and mild, delightful out-of-doors weather. The rains generally occur at night, and the days are clear and sparkling. The annual rainfall will average ten to fifteen inches. Fogs prevail near the sea coast at the beginning and termination of the rainy season. Thunderstorms, cyclones and hurricanes are unknown. At intervals come the northers, which blow without cessation for twenty-four to eighty hours at a time; sometimes warm and sometimes cold; always dry and parching, and when coming before rain, accompanied by a fine impalpable dust. Being broken by crossing the mountains, no serious damage is done, except where their forces are concentrated by some canon or depression in the mountains or hills. In the southern portion of this region, and in some specially well protected places, these winds are scarcely felt.

The fogs and winds are apt 10 follow certain well-defined courses, and frost has its sections of preference.

Dry Season

During the dry season there is little of the harsh dryness of the climate in the northern part of California. Rains are common in the mountains, with a moist, cloudy air in the valleys, which is very useful by materially checking evaporation. The prevailing winds, being from the southwest, are dry and invigorating, and blow only during the day. At night the land breeze sets in from the mountains to the sea, always making the nights cool and pleasant. On account of the utter lack of rain during this season, it becomes the time of rest for all vegetation, and little growth is made. To produce growth upon such plants as need it, irrigation is required, which is carried on by canals from the streams or by artesian wells. Water underlies the whole of the region, often within five feet of the surface. When very near the surface no irrigation is necessary if the soil be properly cultivated, so as to bring the water within reach of the roots. At greater depths the water is brought to the surface by artesian wells.

The underground flow of this water is so great that the number of flowing artesian wells in Southern California is estimated at one hundred.

Soil

The soil of the plains west of the Sierras is formed by the decomposition of the granite of the Sierras, and of the low hills scattered over the plains, with that from the calcareous and sandstone formation of the Coast Range. It is generally of a reddish brown or chocolate color and gravelly nature, and apparently deficient in vegetable matter, excepting along the borders of the streams and foothills, but is in truth rich in everything required for healthy, vigorous and fruitful plant-growth. The land requires generally but little preparation for the plow, except along the margins of the streams and foothills, and is easily worked and cultivated.

The happy combination of all these various advantageous features of Southern California render it the finest fruit country in the world. It is one of the few places where temperate fruits flourish alongside the tropical, and where the apricot can be successfully grown as an orchard fruit. The climate is wonderfully adapted to both animal and vegetable life, and the most delightful occupation in the world can be carried on under the most pleasant auspices.

Best Portion

It is impossible to say which is the best portion of this region. New places are continually springing up, all with certain advantages, and a selection must depend largely upon personal tastes and wishes. The settler must first make up his mind what he wants, and then make his choice by careful personal examination or by adopting the advice of reliable and disinterested parties who have had long experience in the country. As a rule, it is best to invest in unimproved property, for it is much cheaper and will rise in value more rapidly.

Orchard Site

Too much care cannot be exercised in the selection of a site for an orchard, and there are certain general laws that should govern it.

1st. The lowest temperature must not be below 250, and the highest should be 8o° to 100°.

2d. The location should not be low or wet, but elevated and open to the free circulation of the air. The table or mesa lands near the mountains, well protected against the winds, are the best.

3d. The cool, moist atmosphere of the coast brings brown scale and black rust to the oranges and mildew to the grapes. To avoid this it is necessary in Los Angeles county to go back to the hills twenty miles in some places. At San Diegd the climate being warmer, ten or fifteen miles is a sufficient distance from the coast to get rid of the disease.

4th. Some means of abundant irrigation is imperative. The water may be near enough to the surface during most years to suffice for mature trees with proper cultivation, but young trees newly , planted will always require more water than can be had naturally.

5th. The soil should be a deep, sandy or gravelly loam, with an admixture of some clay and a gravelly substratum free from hard pan, or with the hardpan not less than six feet from the surface.

Planting Season

The site for the orchard having been selected, the land is fenced, plowed and harrowed and made ready for planting. The "best season for planting fruit trees in Southern California depends much upon the soil, location and kind of fruit. Serious losses often attend too early planting in low bottom lands from excess of water. March and April are perhaps the best months for planting on bottom lands, while higher and drier lands may be planted earlier, as soon as the soil becomes thoroughly wet to work well. Care should be taken not to plant too close, and irrigation should be carefully used, for if applied too freely the fruit will be large and juicy, but of in. ferior flavor.

Kind Of Fruits To Plant

The most profitable fruit to grow is the olive, next to that the orange, lemon and lime, then the grape for raisin and wine, then apricots, peaches, pears, plums and other temperate fruits. As much of an assortment as possible should be grown so as not to be dependent upon one kind, although no one place will produce every kind of fruit to perfection. Apples, pears and plums are best suited to strong alluvial bottom land, if a little clay the better, while the cherry, peach and apricot do best on a higher and lighter soil. The temperate fruits, excepting grapes, do best near the seacoast, but grapes, oranges and olives require for perfection the warmer and drier air of the interior. Grapes and olives grow and flourish in a soil almost too poor for anything else, but it must be light and the situation elevated and warm.

It will not be necessary here to describe the best methods of planting and cultivating each fruit.

This must be learned by the orchardist practically.

Some general information regarding the starting of an orchard will be sufficient. More than this must be learned by examining the best orchard, and exercising fully the Yankee privilege of asking questions.