There are several distinguishing features presented in the various types of the genus Lychnidea (Phlox), which has determined them as species: for example, Paniculata, from its panicled inflorescence, introduced to this country in 1732; Suaveolens (sweet-scented), has white flowers, introduced in 1766; Pyramidalis (pyramidal-formed trees), introduced in 1799. Then there is Ovata (oval-leaved), introduced in 1790, and other forms. They are all natives of North America.

The Phlox is doubly valuable, first when considered as a border-plant, and next its adaptability for conservatory embellishment. By either mode of culture a continuous succession of bloom may be sustained for months with little trouble.

Like most plants that have been taken into the fostering care of the florist, no efforts have been withheld to develop its best attractions year by year; each type has been superseded by its own offspring, every generation claiming superior rank to that of its progenitor, until now not a few of these types approach perfection.

Hints On General Outdoor Culture

The Phlox will live and flower under almost any system of culture, and the worst of treatment it sometimes gets; but to make it most attractive it requires liberal culture. The proper requisites to this end are, a deep, well-trenched soil, rich in manure, the subsoil effectually drained - shelter from boisterous winds - the surface of the soil regularly stirred and kept open. The position ought to be sheltered, so that the foliage is not injured by cold winds. Sunshine and ample supplies of water are required should a course of dry weather set in while they are growing actively; moreover, when the plants are disposed to throw up numerous shoots, thin them out to, at most, four of the stoutest, when the plants are well established in the soil. By this means the entire energies of the roots will be concentrated into the growths left, which will add wonderfully to the size of the flower-spikes. See that the growths are well supported by stout stakes, when they have reached a few inches above ground.

Weak plants ought to have all the flowers pinched off excepting the strongest stem; perhaps this will encourage lateral growth on those denuded of their flowers, and it is also a means to stimulate fresh root-action.

Propagation

This is effected in different ways, by seed, by cuttings, and division of the roots. Seeds are sown in pans in the autumn, and the seedlings potted, as soon as they are large enough to handle, into small pots. They ought then to occupy a shelf near the glass throughout the succeeding winter, and by March they will have arrived at a state sufficient to warrant their being planted out.

Cuttings should be gathered immediately after flowering in summer, and potted at once in threes around the edge of each pot. The soil for this purpose should be light, with a fair admixture of sand and leaf-mould. Water copiously and have them plunged into a spent hotbed, shading and keeping them rather close and moist for the succeeding ten days, especially in sunshine. When it has been ascertained that roots are in formation, dispense in a measure with glass covering and other means of protection unless the weather prove unfavourable. When the roots are sufficiently advanced to warrant the separation of the plants, have them potted singly into small pots, plunging as before in the open frame.

Subsequent Treatment Of The Plants

Considering first their wants overwinter, allow them just to occupy the cold pit or frame; the only protection - if any be required - is a mat, in addition to the sashes, in extreme frost. Do not let them suffer for want of water, nor from over-doses, only keep the soil in a natural condition of moisture. Ventilate on all occasions of mild weather, and guard against starting too soon by permitting the sashes to be kept close in time of sunshine.

Early in March is a good time to plant into their permanent places out of doors, provided the soil is favourable to planting, and the air free from frost. If it be intended to have beds, allow 2 feet between plants both ways; but should it be the desire to plant into the borders, the proper place for them is either the back line or near to it, in preference to putting them too close to the front. It is best to plant early sorts alternately with the late ones along the length of the border, distributing them so that the latest varieties are nearest the back line.

Indoor Culture

What makes the Phlox really invaluable is its appropriateness for indoor display; in short, no conservatory should be without a few in summer. They are extremely simple in their wants, cultivated in pots; but what is especially essential is to allow pots fully above the average in size, as a healthy Phlox is furnished with an extraordinary number of roots. It is not necessary to pursue the plan of giving successive shifts, but rather pot into those in which they are intended to be flowered, using a compost of three parts light fibry loam, adding a fourth well-reduced cow-manure, and a moderate amount of sand to make the compost porous. Drain sufficiently by means of broken pots, covered with a rotten turf to prevent the soil mixing with the drainage. Turn the plants out of the pots when about to give this final shift, and separate the cramped roots with the fingers before potting. If the roots are very long cut back the longest. Stake to prevent the stems being broken if they are at all advanced. Water well, and give a temporary protection in cold frames until they have made some progress in rooting. Especially guard against cold winds and frost; let them have all the sunshine at command, and plenty of air; never permit them to flag for want of water.

All the foregoing hints ought strictly to be followed or the under foliage will be sacrificed, and along with it one of the best features of the plant.

A little manure-water is of much importance when the flowers begin to form, which should be always given them up to the time the flowers begin to open. At this stage the plants are ready to be placed in the showhouse.

Select List (Early-Flowering)

Lady Napier, white, extra form and richly fragrant (new). William Paul, brisk deep rose, solid and fine (new). Miss H. C. H. Ritchie, glossy white, eye bright dark rose, fine spike. White Lady, of the purest white, without a stain, flowers solid, glossy, and perfect, enormous spike, keeps its foliage to the end. Miss Baillie, shaded white touched with rose, fine spikes. Mrs Hunter, flowers French-white, with a bright purple star-like centre; the veins are prominent on the upper surface of the petals, affording the flower a solid look; pips immense size, of perfect outline, with excellent spike. Mrs Ballan-tyne, white, with neat delicate rose eye, extra. Her Majesty, pure white, highly fragrant, and otherwise first-rate. George Goodall, rose lilac, great flowers, and fine spike. John Baillie, deep rose, shading to purple, good flower. James Neilson, rose purple, large crimson eye, good spike, extra. Roi des Blanches, a most excellent white.

Late-Flowering Varieties

Dr Masters, delicate rose, rich crimson eye, extra (new). Philippa Penglase, flowers pale purple, with blazing pink eye - splendid in pots; a most lively variety. Mrs Dombrain, white, with glowing crimson eye, in every way one of the first. Rosy Morn, a charming distinct peculiar shade of rose, beautiful, compact, extra large spike, and flower very dwarf and compact, retains its fine foliage to the end. Shirley Hibberd, shining carmine with deeper shades, splendid flower and spike. Princess Louise, white suffused with blush, large purple crimson eye of star form, distinct and good. Mrs Laird, rose lilac, has a delicate pleasing effect, flowers handsome and perfect. Miss Macrae, white, deep crimson eye, fine. Ange Gardien, paper white, solid in texture, splendid spike, extra in pots. Chanzy, rose lilac, very large and fine shades of crimson in some instances present around the margin of the flowers. Comte de Lam-bertye, violet red, purple centre. Madame Bonnaire, flowers large, of perfect symmetry, solid and glossy, colour brilliant purple crimson, retains its foliage to the last in pots. Madame A. Verschaffelt, colour carmine rose, with deeper carmine eye, produces immense trusses, and has a brisk lively aspect. Madame Kiomph, brisk rose, deep crimson centre.

Mademoiselle Christine Nilsson, French-white, suffused rose, purple crimson centre. George Henderson, rose shaded dull lilac, purple centre, a novelty. Miss Melville, brilliant glowing light crimson, with deeper crimson eye, fine spike of extra good flowers. R. B. Laird, peach, with bars of delicate rose traced down the petals, one of the best in all its points. A. Kerr.