The advantage of having a good supply of water, which can be given to the kitchen-garden without stint, cannot be overestimated; and the reverse of this (especially where soil is poor, light, and of no great depth) will raise up difficulties which neither skill nor energy can overcome. Where fine tender vegetables are required, means for keeping water in store are indispensable. Underground tanks, formerly referred to, are within the reach of many, if a little expense is not an objection. Garden - drainage, the surface - water from walks, buildings, etc, will go a long way to meet a large demand. We have several of these contrivances, and the quantity of water collected within a few hours is very large. At this season more water is required than at any other, and it is useless to apply it to the kitchen-garden if a good soaking cannot be given. Mulching with litter, grass, etc, will in a measure prevent evaporation: a loose open surface will do much to save the watering - pot. Salads and Peas are among the first crops which suffer from drought, but when the ground has been well prepared with plenty of manure and deep-trenching before sowing, comparatively little difficulty is experienced.

If manure is limited, everything in the shape of mowings of grass, edgings of roads, refuse of vegetables, etc, should be harvested all through the season to mix with fallen leaves, and when well rotted will form an excellent dressing for vegetable crops. Where drills have been used when planting winter crops, the hoe should be used among them, levelling the soil round the stems of the plants. If this is done after a good shower or "artificial watering," the moisture will be long retained about their roots. Continue to plant crops as ground becomes vacant. Brussels Sprouts, Kale, Broccoli, Cauliflower, Savoys, and Cabbage for autumn and winter, may be got in without delay. A store of Kale or Cabbage plants on hand ready to fill up ground after Potatoes, and planting them rather thickly, will do much to keep up supplies of tender produce. Sow more seed soon. Cabbage left to sprout should have the fork used freely among them, and mulching given. This practice is only advantageous where ground cannot be spared for young successions. Top Beans in flower to hasten podding. Peas of an early kind may be tried in suitable localities; and where late kinds are coming in prematurely, the flowers may all be picked off and well topped back, and root action encouraged.

This practice, when the soil at the roots is parched, is useless. Sow a good breadth of Turnips - such as Red and White Stone. Laing's Swede may still be sown, which is a valuable kind in winter. Leeks and Celery should be planted without delay. Early Celery may have a little soil placed among the plants, after the soil has been well stirred and a. good soaking of water given: mulching can also be done with advantage among Celery, especially where the "one-earthing" system is practised. With early Celery, " earth-ing-up," as growth progresses, unquestionably gives the finest-flavoured produce. Blanching is not so easily done in the hot dry season as with late crops. Sow a good bi'eadth of Parsley for winter, and thin out crops as they advance. The thinnings of Parsley, if carefully selected, give good supplies, and stand the winter well. In low damp localities good Parsley may be had in winter by planting on ridges thrown up sharply like the letter A, thus giving a deep soil, on which water will not be too long retained. Dampness and late luxuriant growth in autumn are greater evils to many kinds of winter vegetables than frost. Plenty of Salads for autumn supply should be sown or planted in quantity- - Endive and Lettuce especially.

American Land Cress and Golden Cress are generally esteemed, and they stand the winter well; but August and September is soon enough (according to locality) for main supplies. Spinach may be sown in quantity: well-worked ground is necessary to grow it well; poor sandy soil gives tough produce. Prickly Spinach may be sown at the end of the month. There is seldom too much of this in the winter months. New Zealand Spinach should not be neglected now. Manure - water and mulching the roots will do much to give large tender leaves in autumn. Seakale and Asparagus will be much improved if sprinkled with salt in moist weather; however, late growth should not be encouraged, as the roots would be in danger if the winter should prove damp and cold. Though these are hardy vegetables, unnatural luxuriance and damp rich soil destroy them in severe weather. Tomatoes should have useless growths taken off. Keep the plants from being matted. A single cordon run up a wall, rubbing off the laterals as they appear, is a good practice to secure plenty of large fruit. They flower abundantly at each joint. Thinning is often necessary.

We get plenty of early supplies from these cordons when trained up the rafters of late Cucumber-pits, in which the Cucumbers are allowed to grow on the beds; and on rafters in pits, under which Figs are planted out, plenty of Tomatoes are gathered. The little shade does no harm. Ridge Cucumbers require frequent attention. Large quantities of growths taken off at once encourages the disease, which some suffer severely from. Cold water used after a hot day is a great evil; tepid water is necessary where disease is prevalent. M. T.