This section is from the book "The Gardener V2", by William Thomson. Also available from Amazon: The New Organic Grower: A Master's Manual of Tools and Techniques for the Home and Market Gardener.
In January, for the last two seasons, ground was (as is often the case at this time of year) sodden, and, in many cases, frozen and covered with snow; therefore no ground work could be advanced except draining, and that was somewhat profitless, from the difficulty of clearing snow and frozen surface before the work could be proceeded with. Nevertheless, the operation is always an important one, and if a fall from the ground can be had at all, there is little difficulty in making efficient drainage. Where ground is damp and flat, it is well to see to the means of clearing off stagnant water. If a ditch is the receptacle, let it be clear of vegetation, mud, or other obstacles, so that the water may run clear to its destination. We refer to these points, because it often occurs that drains are well laid, but by ditches filling, a "back water" is caused, and much mischief ensues. We had to deal with a case of this kind on an old place two years ago, and woods, shrubberies, and kitchen-garden suffered materially. Fruit-trees were dying piecemeal; but a clearance of the ditches made a great difference in a short time.
Where there is stagnant water, one can seldom" calculate on a successful supply of vegetables during the winter, and now is the proper time to judge of the requirements of the ground in this respect. The value of the soil should be tested by its depth, and drains made accordingly. 3 to 4 feet is the usual depth; and seldom can one deal with sodden ground with drains much wider apart than 20 feet. Hard ashes from factories may be used, where clay predominates, and several inches nicely placed over the pipes to prevent them filling by rain washing in the clay at the joints. Where drains are formed among trees and shrubs, it is well to use socket-pipes, and the ends should be dipped in tar in process of laying them - the tar to be kept boiling. This makes a suitable preventive of the roots filling the pipes and stopping them. They (the roots) turn from the tar in search of more congenial food.
When weather is suitable, trench or dig up ground to the action of the weather as it may seem necessary.
Avoid treading on wet surfaces : there ought to be plenty of work in the store-yard, when it is unsuitable to tread the ground. Trimmings of hedges may be burnt; stakes for Peas, etc, may be made; composts may be turned and prepared; manure may be turned likewise, and, to increase its quality, turf, siftings of ashes, soot, road - scrapings, and other material, may be mixed with it. Potatoes may be overhauled, clearing out any which are decaying. Roots which are stored may be examined. Onions and every other vegetable in store should not be left to themselves. Everything being in order, one can use all energy in preparing the ground and gathering in the necessary crops, unimpeded, when the time arrives. Manure may be wheeled during frosty weather, but it should not be turned into the ground at random. Potatoes, Beet, Parsnips, and Carrots do well on land which has been properly prepared with manure for other crops the previous season. Trenching the soil is a good preparation for such crops the forthcoming season. The south border for early crops, which require shelter, should now be in readiness, by well digging and breaking the soil: leaf-mould and sand may be serviceable in preparing the soil for seeds or plants. Peas and Broad Beans may now be sown.
They do well sown on the surface and the soil drawn over the seed : red-lead or furze will keep mice and rats at bay. Soot and lime, mixed with dry and fine ashes, is suitable for dusting surfaces to keep slugs off. This may be strewed between all crops - Lettuce and Cabbage especially. Cauliflowers in frames require abundance of air : a pan may be sown in light soil for succession, and brought on cool and airy; so may also Cabbage and Lettuce. Coddling defeats the object of earliness and hardiness. Horse-radish may be dug up and placed in sand, and ground well prepared by trenching and manuring for planting a fresh supply. If pieces of the roots are put down about 12 inches to 16 inches deep, they will come up strong and useful. Spinach and every other crop should be clear of weeds, and have fine open surfaces. Parsley now requires special attention; a portion, with other herbs, lifted and potted, or placed in boxes and pans, may be brought on to meet the demand. Forcing, even in the smallest of places, will now have special attention.
Asparagus on gentle hotbeds; French Beans in pots planted every twelve to twenty days; Potatoes potted and kept under plenty of light and air, and also placed in pits or frames in a gentle warmth, with abundance of light and air; Carrots and Radishes treated in a similar manner, the latter sown between the Potatoes, - are some of the most pressing of crops at this time. Mustard and Cress and Thread Onions should be sown every fortnight, as may be necessary. They should have plenty of air when they are up and growing. Sow pinches of Celery, Capsicums - Tomatoes, if required early. Keep them near the glass, with a temperature of about 60°. Take in successions of Seakale and Rhubarb, as formerly advised, or blanch with leaves and pots. M. T.
 
Continue to: