This section is from the book "The Gardener V2", by William Thomson. Also available from Amazon: The New Organic Grower: A Master's Manual of Tools and Techniques for the Home and Market Gardener.
Preparation should be made as early as possible to get the crops planted which are to come into use during next spring and summer. This applies to Cabbage, Lettuce, Endive, and Cauliflower, on ridges or sloping borders, under handlights or plant-protectors (most useful structures). Trenching the ground, whether it is heavy or light, is an important matter; and though it is not desirable to manure the land heavily, none of the above do well in poor soil. If it is necessary to give manure, a good coating placed between the top and bottom spit will answer well: the roots will not get to it to make the plants rank, so that they will not stand severe weather; but when growth becomes active in spring, they will get the benefit of the manure then. Cabbage may be planted a foot each way where ground is scarce, and every alternate one can be lifted and transplanted in spring, or, if not required for that purpose, they can be used as greens, leaving a full crop on the ground. Lettuce can be planted 6 inches apart or less, and they can be blanched early by the use of flowerpots, boxes, etc, and come in useful, or be transplanted to rich ground in March. We have often sown and planted them between Cabbage, and the latter seemed to give protection; and the Lettuce was all used up before the Cabbage required the space.
When transplanting from the seed-rows, it is necessary to have good sturdy plants. When they have been previously pricked out, they are comparatively easily managed. Thin Lettuce so that a full crop will be left on the ground. Cauliflowers should be planted a few inches apart where they are to remain through the winter; a position well sheltered from easterly winds is of great importance; damp, heavy soil is objectionable. Thin Spinach to 6 iuches apart. Prevent late Turnips from being crowded by timely thinning. Keep the hoe or prong at work among all growing crops as late as it can be done. Onions, if not already pulled, may be taken up to get them ripened before the season is too far advanced. If the weather should be wet, it will be advantageous to dry the bulbs under the roof of an open shed; and if they are hung up where they can be kept thoroughly dry, they will not be hurt by frost. If Carrots are showing signs of being attacked by vermin, lift them all at once before they are entirely destroyed. Carrots in many localities are among the most difficult crops tbe cultivator has to raise; though the ground be ever so good, the attacks of vermin may baffle every effort to grow sound roots.
For nine years past we only succeeded three seasons in having the roots entirely free from the ravages of grubs, though every cure for the pest we read or heard of was tried, the ground being of the finest quality for root-growth. This season, with not the slightest care, a large breadth of Carrots, excellent in quality, shows no signs of,vermin; one-half of the ground was trenched, and the other half turned over in a hurry. Both lots have done well, but on the trenched ground we have roots worth more than double the untrenched land has produced. Earth up Celery three or four weeks before it is required for use. Except it is growing very freely, a good soaking of manure-water will do much to increase the bulk of the crop. Celery collars (Simpson's patent) we have really found very useful. Their aid keeps the plants nice and compact, and helps forward the work speedily. Leeks may be helped forward by the use of manure-water and mulching; where earthiug-up is intended, let it have attention before it is too late to be serviceable. We have planted our late Leeks much further apart this year than usual, ami also manured heavily, and we feel sure that the crop will make up its value in quality.
Earlier lots sown and thinned out have been earthed up and in use more than a month, and will give all we can desire up to the end of the year. It is a good practice with all winter crops not to depend entirely on one sowing or planting. Lift Potatoes as the tops die down. If there is not time to spare for lifting the tubers, let all decaying tops and weeds be cleared away till a convenient time. Let them be stored dry if possible, and the covering should not be placed over them till excessive damp has evaporated. Much injury is often done to roots of all kinds by covering them up from the air when they are in a wet condition. Keep medium-sized tubers for seed, and lay them out thinly, if room can be spared. Any seeds which may have been saved should be kept free from the attacks of birds; they should be laid out thinly to dry, but not baked in the sun on a hot surface, as is sometimes the case, and the vitality of the seeds almost destroyed. Keep up supplies of salads; sow large quantities of Cress; sow more Radishes, and cover them with lights or other means. French Beans may now be sown in pits which can be heated, or in pots to take under glass. Gentle hotbeds, which can have a lining placed round them when the weather gets colder, answer well, and give supplies far into the autumn.
Ridge Cucumbers can be helped in a similar manner. Vegetable Marrows can be kept in bearing condition late into the season by protection with hoops and mats, but glass protection is better. Tomatoes which were sown last month (with the view of keeping up supplies all the year round) should not be drawn up in heat; let the plants grow with plenty of light and air as long as it is safe to do so. Cuttings we have often found answer well, and have some on hand at present; like Cucumbers, they are more fruitful than seedlings. Capsicums can be brought forward in any warm position. If they are fully grown, they can be pulled out by the roots, and hung up where they can get heat from a chimney or flue. Herbs not gathered should have attention at once; dry them in the shade. Beds of warm horse-manure may be thrown up behind a wall, or into ridges made firm preparatory for mushroom-growing. Pieces of spawn, placed 6 or 8 inches apart over the beds, and a covering of an inch of soil, may give good supplies of mushrooms for months to come. A good covering of hay or litter is necessary as the season advances; and the same principle carried out with wooden shutters placed over the covering material to keep it dry, will give supplies all through the winter.
In market-gardens scarcely any other method is adopted. M. T.
 
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