Prepare the ground by deep and thorough culture. Deep planting is less liable to result in winter-killing than shallow planting. For garden cul-ture, 4x6 feet, 4x8 feet or 6x8 feet are all good distances, if vines are thoroughly pruned and not allowed to bear too much wood or fruit. For field culture, 8x8 feet, 8x 10 feet or even 10x 10 feet are not too great distances, as each vine can be allowed to bear more clusters. A warm, sunny exposure to the south and east is best, I think. Rich gravelly or sandy loam is undoubtedly the best kind of soil; but any soil that will raise corn will raise grapes. Grapes need to be as well cultivated as corn, to raise as good a crop.

Well-rooted one-year vines are the best. Be sure to trim off all broken or bruised roots. Trim the top to two buds the first year, and the same number the second year. If more start, rub or cut off all but the two best.

Until expected to bear, no staking or tying is necessary, more than to keep them from being worn and broken by the wind. I use posts 6 feet high, with five or six wires, the lower one 12 inches from the ground, the upper one on top the post, and the others at equal distant apart. In the fall, after frost has killed all the leaves, after the second summer's growth, trim to six to eight buds on each vine. Lay down and cover lightly with earth just before the ground freezes. In the spring, just as soon as the ground is done freezing, uncover, and let the vines lie until all the buds have started an inch or two; then fasten well to the lower wire, and as fast as the vines reach a wire, tie to it.

Allow the young bearing vines to grow to the top of the posts; then cut off, and keep them cut off the rest of the summer. Always try to have two strong vines grow out from the crown each summer. In the fall, cut away all the old wood, trim as before, lay down this new wood and cover with dirt. If you should not be able to get new, stout vines from the crown, then cut the old wood back to one bud on each upright and lay down, and cover the old vine. The old canes will answer for three or four years, but will not look so neat or bear as nice fruit as younger ones. About 40 rose bushes planted to the acre will entice the bugs, where they can be caught, and the grapes will be saved. Never allow more than 20 or 30 of the largest clusters to each vine if the vines are no more than 8x8 feet or 8 x 10 feet, for that gives all a vine should bear. 10 to 15 pounds to the vine would be 3½ to 5 tons per acre.

Give clean culture up to the middle of August, and later, unless the ground is mellow. The ground should never be allowed to become baked. Good soil and cultivation will go a long way toward preventing mildew, rot and other diseases of the vine. Barn-yard manure, ashes or potash and bone dust I regard as the best fertilizers, while lime, plaster and salt are useful. If the soil is very rich, larger and fairer grapes will result, but they will be poorer in flavor.

I prevent rot by spraying with weak salt water twice a week in the evening near sundown. If ice is kept in in the water, all the better; in fact, ice-water alone has proved sure with me. Vines sprayed with cold well water all perfected their fruit, while vines left to themselves, close by, nearly all rotted. This fact should attract the attention of the experimenters.

Bristol, Indiana, L. H. G.