THE first fresh-apple pie of the late summer has a flavor quite unlike those made with winter apples, and its appearance on the table is hailed with gustatory delight by those who are familiar with its delicious qualities. The excessive use of pastry, common in the old times, is not recommended; but a pie made of light flaky paste, delicately flavored fruit, well baked and eaten while fresh, may occasionally help to complete a dinner when the first course is somewhat light. A pie like those often served at grandmother's may be made this way:

Apple Pie

Line a pie plate with pastry made in these proportions for one pie. One-fourth teaspoonful of salt, and one rounded tablespoonful of lard rubbed into one heaped cupful of sifted pastry flour. Wet with cold water to a stiff dough. Pat with rolling pin into an oblong, half inch thick, spread with one rounded tablespoonful of cold, hard butter in little dabs, dredge with flour, roll over, then pat down flat and roll, into a long narrow piece; roll over like a jelly roll and divide in middle. Stand one-half on end, pat flat, and roll out to fit the plate, a trifle large to allow for shrinking.

Fill the plate with pared and sliced tart apples. Roll the other crust and lay it on lightly without pressing edges together. Bake in a hot oven, and when brown and the apples are soft, run a knife between the crusts. Remove the top carefully to another plate. To the hot apple add a teaspoonful of butter and a mixture of half a cupful of sugar (or more if liked very sweet), a slight dash of salt, and one-eighth teaspoonful of any spice preferred, nutmeg, cinnamon, or allspice, or grated lemon rind. Mix carefully till butter and sugar melt, cover with top crust and serve. Or, take out part of the seasoned apple, lay the upper crust with top down on the pie, and cover with the remaining apple. Serve while warm.

For festive occasions cover the top with whipped sweetened cream; or with a meringue of two egg whites, and two heaped tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar flavored with lemon juice, and brown it slightly.

Mincemeat Without Meat

Chop together one peck of green tomatoes and one dozen large apples. Add one tablespoonful of ground cloves, two tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, two tablespoonfuls of allspice, one grated nutmeg, five pounds of brown sugar, two pounds of raisins, one pound of finely shredded citron. Chop two oranges and two lemons, and add with one cupful of vinegar and any jelly or fruit juice that you may have. Cook all together until tomatoes are tender. Then add brandy when making into pies.

Mock Cherry Pie

Chop one quart of cranberries, add two and one-half cupfuls of sugar, or if preferred, two cupfuls of sugar and one-half cupful of molasses. Then add one table-spoonful of flour, with one-half cupful of water, or one tablespoonful of cornstarch, wet with a little cold water to which one cupful of boiling water is added. If liked, add one cupful of chopped raisins. This makes two pies.