These are the growths of really fine coffees. There are of course, Segundas, or second grades, many of which drink well, but we are considering only the fancy types. Blends composed of Bogota together with a Guatemalan, or a Mexican coffee or both, produce some of the highest types obtainable. A Guatemala has a lighter body, is slightly smoother in appearance than a Bogota and has a straight stripe inclined to open somewhat wider. It is full of aroma and gives forth a spicy fragrance that is most delightful.

The Mexican bean is usually smaller, slightly more rounded, and roasts with a more open stripe than either of the two coffees just mentioned. It has a heavy acid character which blends particularly well with a smooth Bogota, while the Guatemala adds the delicate aroma peculiar in this coffee.

As against coffees from the Dutch East Indies it is merely a matter of preference. Coffee drinkers that are looking for the musty character of the Old Crop Sumatra coffee find this character only in such coffees. It is the coffee now known as Interior Padang grown in Sumatra which was formerly the Old Government Java. The coffee is an irregular roaster due to the method of curing and ageing. All coffees improve by being held in the warehouse, but no coffees are now mellowed by being stored for varying periods of time as was formerly the case with the coffees controlled by the Dutch Government. In addition to this, the long voyage under a tropical sun around the Horn in sailing vessels further mellowed and colored the coffee. These coffees are no longer held, as used to be the case, and it is probable that the last sailing vessel from the Dutch East Indies to bring in a cargo of coffee arrived in May, 1913. The coffees in future will come forward in the faster steam vessels and the benefit of the long voyage will be lost.

The coffee actually grown on the island of Java and now sold as genuine Java is a large smooth roasting bean with a straight regular stripe. The cup character is quite different from the Padang coffees, but it is very much smoother and has an individual quality easily detectable.

The Mocha coffee of Arabia is a small irregular bean, one of the poorest roasting coffees grown, containing a considerable quantity of broken and misshapen berries. In the cup its merit is at once apparent, as it has a peculiar winey acid reproduced in no other coffee. A straight Arabian Mocha made full strength furnishes a most excellent after-dinner coffee.

There are innumerable combinations that may be made up by using coffee from the Dutch East Indies together with the three superior growths of the western hemisphere. It is quite apparent that such combinations are necessary in order to satisfy the different demands of the various consumers.

If you would have the best flavored coffee, buy it in the bean and grind it fresh each time it is to be made. If a method of making coffee is selected which demands pulverized coffee, the most satisfactory mill is a hand-driven miniature of the type used in the shops, run by hand or motor power. The cheaper mills are satisfactory when fine granular coffee is desired; they can be adjusted from " very fine" to " coarse " and can be obtained at practically all prices.

Actual tests in coffee making show a remarkable increase in strength, the more finely ground is the coffee. Each granule of ground coffee consists of minute compartments which are broken into more and more as the berry is more finely ground. The coarser the grind the less the yield. The finer the grind the quicker and stronger the yield.

No less important is the fresh grinding, for coffee, even in the tightest of containers, depreciates in flavor very fast. Coffee pulverized fresh each day for four days was tested blind at the expiration of that time. Each day's grinding was readily identified, some flavor and aroma being lost with each day's standing. So noticeable is this, that when fresh ground coffee is used, the familiar " spoonful to the pot" may be omitted with no loss in strength.

There are four common methods of making coffee: boiling, steeping, percolating, and filtering.

To boil coffee is practically to spoil coffee, for in the process the coarse fibrous shell is broken down and adds its crude flavor to the delicate flavor oils of the coffee bean. Moreover, the liquid must be " cleared " with eggs, adding a foreign matter which is no improvement in flavor. Finally this method yields a relatively high per cent, of both caffeine and coffee-tannin, and it is the latter especially that dietitians now question as possibly harmful to certain individuals.

When coffee is " steeped," it is placed in cold water, brought quickly to a boil, then removed and settled with a dash of cold water. As in the boiled coffee the coffee is used ground " medium fine." Practically the same criticisms may be made to this method: Perfectly clear coffee is difficult to obtain; the full aromatic flavor is prevented, because other elements injurious to flavor are extracted; and this method too yields a high per cent, of both caffeine and coffee-tannin.

Percolating coffee results in a practically clear beverage. Many users of percolators think that the boiling of the water forces it to rise through the tube. Instead, it is the force of condensation, and the temperature ranges between 130 degrees Fahrenheit and 160 degrees Fahrenheit. The water does not boil at all. Percolating coffee produces clear coffee and a better flavor to many palates than the previous methods, but this method also shows a high per cent, of caffeine and coffee-tannin. Thus it seems to make little difference in regard to the temperature of the water as to the extraction of these compounds. Instead, it is the length of time the coffee is in contact with the water. The quicker the coffee is made, then, the less caffeine and coffee-tannin will be present.

For this reason especially many will be interested in the fourth method: filtering the coffee. Filtered coffee is made so rapidly that only small per cents of caffeine and coffee-tannin are present in the finished beverage, while the flavor and aroma are excellent. In this method only finely pulverized or powdered coffee can be used successfully. In its simplest form fresh boiling water is poured through the coffee held in a cloth strainer, above a tea cup.

For some reason, certain metals have an effect on coffee flavor, so the use of china or glass is advisable.

A recipe sanctioned by Dr. Wiley reads as follows: