This section is from the book "The Modern Cook: A Practical Guide to the Culinary Art in All Its Branches", by Charles Elme Francatelli. Also available from Amazon: The Modern Cook: A Practical Guide to the Culinary Art in All Its Branches.
Comprising Epigramme of Sweetbreads.
Scollops of Sweetbreads, with Shalot Gravy.
d la Dauphine.
a' la d' Uxelles.
Scollops of Sweetbreads d la Mar'echale.
a' la Soubise.
d la Poulette.
Croquettes of Sweetbreads.
Procure four throat sweetbreads, and steep them in water for several hours, changing the water frequently, until they are freed from redness : they must then be scalded for five minutes in boiling water, and after being immersed in fresh water to cool them, should be put in press between two dishes, to flatten. Next, put one of the sweetbreads to braize in some white broth : when done, set it aside to get cool, and let it be afterwards cut into small circular scollops, and placed in a small stewpan, with an equal quantity of scollops of red tongue and mushrooms. Cut the three remaining sweetbreads, in a slanting direction, into oval scollops a quarter of an inch thick; bread-crumb onehalf with two coatings of bread-crumbs, by dipping them the first time in beaten egg, and the second in clarified butter; place these in a sautapan with a little clarified butter, and prepare the other half separately in a similar manner, without bread-crumbing them; both must be seasoned with pepper and salt. When about to send to table, fry the bread-crumbed scollops of a light-color, but the others should be merely simmered over a slow fire, in order to keep them as white as possible; glaze the former and toss the latter in a little Bechamel sauce, dish them up, alternately placing a bread-crumbed scollop with a white one; fill the centre with the small scollops of tongue, etc, previously warmed in a little Bechamel sauce, pour some of the sauce round the base, and serve.
Bread-crumb the whole of the scollops, as directed in the foregoing case, fry them of a light color, drain them on a piece of paper, and glaze; dish them up in a close circle, pour some rich shalot gravy (No. 167) under them, and serve.
Cut the sweetbreads into oval scollops, place them in a sautapan, with a little clarified butter, season with pepper and salt, a little nutmeg and some chopped parsley, squeeze the juice of half a lemon over them, and simmer them gently over the fire for ten minutes; they must then be removed into a dish, and when partially cold, covered with a thin coating of puree of fowl, mixed with an equal proportion of reduced Allemande sauce, and when this has become firmly set by cooling, dip them in beaten egg, and bread-crumb them. Twenty minutes before sending to table, let them be carefully fried in plenty of hog's-lard, made hot for the purpose; drain them on a napkin to absorb all the grease, dish them up in a close circle, pour some oure'e of mushrooms (No. 122) in the centre, and serve.
These are prepared in almost every particular just as the foregoing except that D'Uxelles sauce (No. 16) must be substituted for the puree to mask the scollop with. After having simmered, let them be masked with the sauce, and afterwards bread-crumbed; then fried, dished up and served with either of the following sauces : - Brown or white Italian, Poivrade, half glaze, scollops of mushrooms or truffles, puree of truffles, plain gravy, or puree of mushrooms.
These must be seasoned with a little pepper and salt, masked over with a thin coating of reduced Allemande sauce, and afterwards bread-crumbed upon this; they should then be placed in circular order in a sautapan with some clarified butter, and fried of a bright-yellow color. When done, dish them up in close order, and let the centre be filled with Toulouse ragout (No. 187).
Prepare and dish up these, as the foregoing ; fill the centre with Soubise sauce (No. 119), and serve.
They may also be scored with all kinds of garnishes of dressed vegetables, purees of vegetables, or any kind of sauce served with cutlets.
When the sweetbreads have been scalded in the usual manner, cut them into circular scollops, place them in neat order in a sautapan with a little clarified butter, and season with pepper and salt, chopped parsley and lemon-juice; simmer them over a moderate fire for about ten minutes, and when done remove them into a stewpan, containing enough sauce a la Poulette for the entree, add some scollops of mushrooms or truffles, toss the whole together gently over the stove-fire until sufficiently hot, and then dish them up in a pyramidal form, and serve with a border of croquettes of potatoes round the entree.
Note. - Scollops of sweetbreads, a la Russe and a la Provengale, are prepared in the same manner as veal cutlets under these names.
When the sweetbreads have been scalded, put them into a small stewpan with two shalots, a little mignionette-pepper and salt, half a bay-leaf and a sprig of thyme ; moisten with some stock-pot toppings, and set them to braize gently for about twenty minutes ; when done, drain them on a plate to get cold, after which let them be cut up into very small dice, and mix with some stiff-reduced Allemande sauce ; season with a little pepper and salt and grated nutmeg; stir the whole gently over the stove-fire for two minutes, spread the preparation on a dish about an inch thick, and put it in the larder to get cold. The croquettes then must be shaped, bread-crumbed, and fried in the same manner as directed for veal croquettes.
Note. - Some red tongue, mushrooms, or truffles, cut into small dice, may also be mixed in with the sweetbreads.
 
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