This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
The helmet shown in Fig. 724, is made in a two-quart tin mold filled with a pudding. When unmolded decorate it with halved pistachios and cover these with a thin layer of strawberry ice cream (No. 3451). The crest of the helmet is of vanilla, the edge resting on the socle of chocolate and the whole is dressed on a natural water socle. The feather should be made of spun sugar.

Fig. 724.
Have a lead mold the shape of a well and fill if with light vanilla ice cream (So. 3458); this mold should have an inside one to form the hollow of the well; freeze for an hour, unmold it on a water socle dressed on a napkin and fill the inside with half a pound of rice, blanched and cooked in a light twelve-degree vanilla syrup (No. 3165); drain and add a salpicon of apricots cut in small sticks and shredded pistachios; mix the whole into strawberry ice cream (No. 3451). having mixed into it the same quantity of whipped cream (No. 50) flavored with a little maraschino: the ornament on top should be made of spun sugar, fastened on to the well just when serving (see Fig. 725 ).

Fig. 725.
Put one pint of apricot pulp in a vessel with two gills of almond milk (No. 4) and one gill of maraschino; add some syrup to bring the preparation to twenty-two degrees, then strain, freeze and mix with it the same quantity of whipped cream (No. 50). Place this preparation in a turban-shaped mold, pack in ice to freeze for one hour, then unmold and decorate around the center with some well-pared, ripe pineapple cut in four, and the hard center core suppressed; then cut up the remainder in slices, lay them it in a vessel and bestrew with sugar, pouring over some rum so that they macerate for half an hour.

Fig. 726.
Vanilla Strawberry Tarban can be made by mixing in the same quantity of whipped cream (No. 50)after it is frozen; unmold and garnish the center with fresh strawberries macerated in kirsch, maraschino and a little powdered sugar. The turban can also be served plain or else trimmed with a sultana of spun sugar.
 
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