If three wines are wanted by the " party of the first part," let the sherry and Burgundy be followed by a good, dry champagne.

For sake of variety, Madeira might be substituted for the Burgundy, especially if the third course be an entree. But after all, if it's to be game, there's nothing better to accompany the bird than rare old Burgundy, with its pleasant sparkle and roseate hue.

The Californian takes great pride in the wine of his State. In San Francisco, where were, perhaps, aside from New York, the finest restaurants on the continent, one seldom saw imported wine drunk unless it be sherries and champagnes, and, perhaps, Burgundies. But after all, the native wines are tempting enough, and the sparkling Moselle of California is excellent indeed, and often substituted for champagne. At Zinkand's, Tait's, the Techau Tavern, The Poodle Dog, and the Palace Grill were the finest of cellars, and the wines of California were served three times where the imported were called for once. As for apricot brandy - there's no better in the world than that of Southern California.

If one elects to serve champagne alone at his dinner party, then let it be very dry. Some like, by way of variety, to serve champagne-cup throughout the meal. But tell it not in Kentucky - for if anyone dares there to prefer anything to a great glass pitcher of mint julep, he gets himself very much disliked in the Blue Grass country.

Nations differ in their mode of using wines.

The French take theirs at dinner, and use only enough to make conversation sparkle like their own wines.

The Germans sit early and late, and the Russians are only a little more moderate. The Spanish and Italians strike a happy medium, while the Englishman, who formerly adopted French and German methods combined, is more temperate; inebriety has gone out of fashion in England, and as for Americans, they are perhaps as a whole less addicted to the use of wines than any other nation; but those who do drink them, drink heartily. They drink merrily, withal, and are decided contrasts to the English, who, as old Froissart was wont to declare, " do get drunk very sorrowfully."

A Frenchman will take first his oysters and a glass of Pontac or Chablis. Then his potage is followed by a glass of good ' vin ordinaire," such as Maçon; and after the first course is taken away he commonly pours a very small glass of Madeira, rum, or something similar. Whatever other wine his fancy dictates follows - as in France it is posible to obtain the finest of wines by the glass.

At private dinners in Russia the wines are often placed upon the tables, which are free from dinner service. The guests pour their own wines, or have them poured by the servant, according to their fancy. The plats de jour are on side tables, and the guests are presented with a carte du jour, so that each may order the servant to bring whatever most pleases his fancy.

In most other European countries, in good society, the French mode is imitated closely in variety of wines and the mode of taking them.

In countries where ice is not easily obtainable a curious fashion of cooling white wines is followed. The decanter is hung up in a flannel bag that has previously been well soaked in water, in the full glare of the sun's rays where there is a strong " courant d'air." The consequent evaporation by keeping the bag dripping wet cools the wine almost to freezing point. The water of a covered well or spring, fresh drawn, in which a pound or two of salt is thrown, will reduce the temperature of wine to a low and agreeable point. The Italians still hold to the old custom of lowering the dinner wine into a well an hour or two before use, which generally renders its temperature just right.

Where expense be no object, freezing mixtures may be used. Eleven parts of sal ammoniac, dry and powdered, ten of nitre, sixteen of Glauber salts, and thirtyCorrect Wines for all Occasions two of water, will cool wine sufficiently in any climate - but the operation should be carried on in the coolest place possible.

The effect of atmospheric cold in winter often renders a bottle of wine cloudy. This may be remedied by placing it in a room where there is a good fire for an hour or two before serving.

In decanting sherry or Madeira, the stoppers of the decanters should be left out for an hour or two, but this should never be done with light and delicate wines, as their bouquet and freshness are visibly affected by contact with the air.

The specific gravity of the wine and the glass should harmonize; therefore all delicate wines should be taken from the thinnest of glasses. This modern preference for thin glasses has precedent in the passion of the ancients for particular wine cups. The " murrhine cup " from which emperors and kings drank their Falernian wine is noticed in writings which remain. Often the cups were of finest glass from Egypt, or amber, flasks made in Syria, amethystine cups, and vases of gold.

Some persons affirm that to really enjoy wine, a sip of cold water should first be taken, after which the taste will be at its best. One cannot but sympathize with poor Sir Walter Scott, who, it is said, was singularly insensible to tastes and odors. A perfect palate is indeed a rare gift of nature. A healthy palate comes from a healthy digestion, and is the best gift for judging the existing flavor of wine.

George the Fourth had so decided a preference for sherry that in his day it was the favorite wine, and nearly ousted Madeira from its place in English tastes. Gypsum sprinkled over the grapes while in the vat saturate the malic acid and give sherry its brown color. Amontillado is the finest of sherries, and at its prime kept in wood for sixteen years. It is too dry for the taste of common wine drinkers, but is one of the finest growths in the world.

The best Madeiras have no tendency to acidity, and the finest East Indian Madeira is a wine that has scarcely an equal.

Marsala, the favorite wine of Sicily, is excellent; other Sicilian wines are Mazzara, Bronte, and Etna, but Marsala is more worthy and especially well adapted for cooking, in Italian sauces.

The Rhenish wines are the purest and most whole-some wines, say some experts. Most of them come from the banks of the Rhine and Moselle Rivers, in Germany, and the variety is legion. Genuine German wines have a bouquet like the French, which is in itself a mark of pure growth. The real golden Rhenish wines, such as Niersteiner, Marcobrunner, and Rudes-heimer, are famous, while Johannisberger and Geissen-heimer are perfect in delicacy and aroma. " Good hoch," the German proverb runs, " keeps off the doctor." It enlivens without inebriating, strengthens and warms the stomach pleasantly.

Burgundies are the finest red wines in the world for delicacy, flavor, perfume, richness, and purity. A man of discriminating taste will pay as much for Burgundy as for champagne, and not hesitate to announce his preference for the former.

Bordeaux clarets, when unadulterated, are delicate, and are consumed in great quantity. Lafitte, Latour, Haut-Brion, and Chateau Margaux ere among the popular brands, but there are a hundred and one varieties that are passing good. Good claret has a remarkable freshness of taste and smell. Many of them come, in France, under the head of "vin ordinaire," but are by no means to be despised. Indeed, in the Quartier Latin in Paris there are scores of restaurants where the vin ordinaire at one or two sous a glass is drunk and enjoyed by the students of all nations with equal jouis-sance. Ordinarily it is mixed with water, either plain or mineral. For twenty-five centimes, or five cents, a pint bottle may be had, and no dejeuner or diner is complete without this, at least, provided one's pocket-book will not admit of a better wine.