This section is from the book "Cassell's Cyclopaedia Of Mechanics", by Paul N. Hasluck. Also available from Amazon: Cassell's Cyclopaedia Of Mechanics.
Before beginning to replace broken sash lines, carefully lower the top sash to see whether the breakage is at one or botn of the lines. The 5/8-in. bead of the side at which the line is to be restored must be removed, a blunt chisel being used; a broad chisel bruises less than a narrow one. Begin the prising of the bead from the back, as, though the paint must be broken, it need not be defaced more than necessary. The lower sash can then be removed and the old line cleared with pincers or a blunt chisel. If the upper sash line is broken it is often best first to remove the line from the lower sash so that it may he put out of the way. The parting bead must next be removed, and pincers are better than a chisel for this. Sometimes a chisel, used to cut the paint at the lower half of the bead, is an advantage. Remove the pocket piece and take out the weight and old cord. If it is difficult to remove the weight, it is sometimes possible to tie a new line without removal. The new line is pa ssed through the sash pulley by means of a " mouse," a piece of lead not thicker than the line and about 2 in. long, to which a fine strong twine is affixed; the twine is hitched to the sash line twice or thrice and the mouse is entered through the pulley, drawn through the pocket, and the line pulled through by its aid.
If the weight is still in the sash frame, the line can be inserted in the weight by drawing through the mouse and making a knot. Lift the weight as high as possible and lix the line so that the sash will just reach the sill. Superfluous line is often a hindrance to proper working of windows, asthe line always stretches in use. The replacing of the pocket piece can he done before the line is fixed to the sash, and, in the case of the lower sash, the parting bead can also he put in. The --in. or stop bead should be sprung in by getting nails nearest the ends in first. Sometimes they will need shortening, but no nails ought to be removed, and all should be guided to their holes, first those nearest the ends, and then those a* the middle. If needful, a nail or panel pin may be inserted, hut this is mit necessary unless the bead springs away from its place. Care must be taken to strike on the old nails or the stopping will come out and the bead be made unsightly.
 
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