A hollowing block cut preferably from the trunk of an oak or beech tree will be required for hollowing tinplate: a convenient size will be about 3ft. high and 2 ft. 6 in. in diameter. The holes on the top end are cut in varying depths and diameters with a small adze. If a variety of hollowed articles is to be worked, a set of block hammers will be required. These comprise a bullet-faced hammer for covers; a hammer with the faces curved to a greater radius than the first named for kettle bodies and similar work; and one with the faces flatter than either of the two former ones for canister bodies, etc. When working the metal, if a circle is to be hollowed, place the metal so that the edge of the circle is over a hole in the block of suitable depth, and then hollow it by delivering regularly with the hammer a series of blows first round the edge, and then in a series of concentric circles as far in towards the centre as may be desired. The work is then smoothed by again going over the hollowed part with light regular blows, or giving a series of radial strokes upon a planishing wheel. When hollowing ovals, such as a kettle top, the sides of the oval do not require so much hammering as the ends.

If the shape is a rectangle, or an oblong with round corners, the corners are the parts that require most working. Hollowed work in tinplate is usually executed in "tacks" of four or six discs or ovals, according to the thickness of metal used.