How the game court is constructed and marked, and details of folding boxes, cues, and disks.

If 3/4" plywood is not readily obtainable in the required size, it is better to use tongue-and-groove boards or flooring rather than a lighter plywood, which might bend under the weight of the players.

After the four sections have been made, the next step is to paint them and mark them for the games. Two coats of flat-finish paint are applied first. When dry, the lines, numbers, and other markings are painted on as shown in the drawing of the court as it appears when extended to its full length. Finally a protective coat of high-grade clear floor varnish is applied. The reason for using flat paint first is that it is difficult to paint the lines and numbers on a glossy surface. The paint will not "take" well and has a tendency to "creep."

If a really good-looking job is desired, it might not be a bad idea to have a local sign painter do the lining and numbering. Uneven lines and shaky lettering, while they would make no difference in playing the various games, would spoil the appearance

Any color scheme that suits the taste of the builder will do, so long as it is one that permits the markings to stand out distinctly. In other words, dark figures and lines should go on a light ground and vice versa.

The colors used on the game court illustrated are white, black, and bright red, with several shades of gray made by mixing the white and black in various proportions. A toned-down red was also obtained where necessary by the addition of a little black to the bright red.

The holes for croquet wickets and stakes are bored as shown in the drawing of the four sections when placed together to form a court 6' by 12'. A target for darts is painted on the underside of a playing surface as in the illustration that shows the equipment being packed into one of the sections. If preferred, a suitable paper target can be bought for a few cents from a store dealing in archery supplies and this can be pasted on.