Now, for the next two months the bitch must require every attention. For safety's sake she should be kept away from her old canine friends for about a week. She must not, however, be denied exercise, and all throughout the time she is carrying her puppies she must have plenty of exercise and fresh air. But it must not be of too boisterous a character,.and I would not permit a bitch in whelp to play with a dog of her own size, or a larger dog, • too much. A collision between her and a heavy companion might be very serious indeed.

If your bitch is a house pet and has been accustomed to jumping upon chairs, the safest plan to guard against accidents is to tip the chairs up against the wall for a week or two before she is due to whelp - if you are yet keeping her in the house. When very heavy, she can not always make the same jump, and should she miss, striking against chair and fall back, it would likely mean the death of her and the pups.

For a few clays after being bred, quietude and exercise on chain is advisable for safety, and should then follow exercise twice daily, in proportion to constitution, temperament and condition, and as she nears the time of whelping, the chain may be again necessary, as a restraint.

From the time bitch is bred, the food need not be different from usual until five or six weeks gone, and showing heavy with pups, when she will of course need more to eat. Feed her now more liberally with a fair proportion of beef and mutton. Raw beef cut up fine, is very good in winter, a little once a day as she approaches the time of whelping. Bread and milk and especially soups will be very good for the other meals; soft foods and of an opening nature being desirable. A large beef or veal bone to gnaw on is good. Plenty of milk is also what she needs. The nearer her time gets the more she will need to eat. Feed her three times a day during the last two weeks. On the feeding of the bitch during this time will depend the size and healthfulness of the coming litter, and when the pups are born, a warm pan of milk will be relished by the dam, in which may be put a little baking soda. Soft food should be continued for a few days, when a return to ordinary diet will be safe.

Many times a female, after giving birth to her young, refuses to eat and loses her appetite. A few drops of assafcetida given in water and a little rubbed on her gums usually restores her appetite, and with a good appetite usually comes a good flow of milk.

It is usually after a lapse of sixty-three days that the pups come, and some days before the event a suitable secluded place should be provided for her. It is important that a record should be kept of date she was bred. Have her stall or kennel prepared a week before she is due. If in winter this must be warm, but with light and ventilation. The latter must only be furnished from the top.

I've found the best plan to be, to securely tack down an old carpet or blanket on the floor which enables the puppies to get a foothold when first born, and thus crawl to their mother. The bitch will scratch and dig for several days before whelping and try her best to scratch up the carpet, so put in plenty of tacks. This carpet should be exchanged for a clean one, the next day after she whelps. A little of Clayton's or the Vermilax Co.'s flea powder sprinkled around in her box should be clone daily. A loose carpet in box is not advisable, as a puppy is liable to get under it and get smothered.

Not all bitches are good mothers, some being too nervous, and through this nervousness and from fear that they may lose some of their children, or that you might take one away, they get excited, and lay on a pup or two.

A very safe plan I've found, and I always so fit up the stall or box, is to fasten a shelf a few inches from the floor to the sides and back of box, extending out a few inches so that if she gets nervous and turns around too often to get a place to suit her, the pups are protected from being laid on by this shelf.

. It is generally best not to disturb the bitch at the time of whelping, but in case of fever or excitement, or, in fact, if anything indicating trouble be detected, it may be necessary for some one to remain with her, and for the pups to be taken away and kept warm until normal conditions return. Veterinarian skill may be necessary in some conditions, but as a warm place for the pups is all that is needed for a couple of hours after birth, it is easy to take the milk from the teats with the hand if the fever is likely to have rendered it injurious to the pups and the fever may be quickly remedied, and a non-injurious flow made in time for the pups to rejoin their mother.

The very best advice I can give the breeder is, do not interfere; the few cases where it will be necessary to do so will only add force to this rule. When help is called for, find a verterinary surgeon who understands treatment of dogs, or one who makes dogs a specialty. Many veterinarians are all right as to horses and cows, but woefully ignorant as to dogs. If manual assistance has to be given, avoid unnecessary force. When labor is protracted and bitch seems to need assistance to create more labor pains, then give her Fellows' Compound Syrup of Hypophosphate, two hours apart; the dose would be a half teaspoonful for a bitch of 15 to 25 lbs., and three-quarters of "a teaspoonful for a 25 to 40-lb. bitch, with a teaspoonful for larger ones up to 60 lbs., while for very large bitches such as a St. Bernard, a teaspoonful and a half would be the dose. Get one ounce of the Fellows' Compound Syrup of Hypophosphate and have your druggist add to it four grains of quinine. I have found this very valuable, much better and safer than ergot (the liquid extract of rye), which is liable to work both ways, favorable and otherwise, expanding or contracting the womb. Such medicine is not always necessary, as in very many cases Nature takes care of the matter, and it is only needed and advised to be given when bitch requires assistance - the object being to create more labor pains if bitch needs the same. In several cases of bitches that required the Fellows' Syrup of Hypophosphate I also gave an injection per vagina of glycerine put into hot water and injected luke warm, but of course not hot.