Feeding

I do not think it wise to adopt any strict formula in feeding, much must be left to the observation of the feeder, who will see that what does well for one does not answer with another in getting the dog up in firm flesh and muscle; sloppy food and fat, and fat-making articles should be avoided. Many make the mistake of changing the diet suddenly from a comparatively poor one to a rich one, and gorge their dogs with flesh, with the consequence of throwing more work on to the assimilative organs than they can perform, and hence we have a break out of surfeit or blotch just at the time we want the dog's skin to be faultless and his coat to be bright and clean.

Supposing a dog's ordinary fare to be ordinary dog biscuits, with, perhaps, house scraps or some equivalent for them added, there should be no change further than the gradual addition of more, perfectly lean meat, and, if this is stewed, the biscuits broken, and the meat and liquid from it poured over the biscuits previously broken, and covered up till cold enough to give, and, with the addition daily of a modicum of boiled green vegetables, no better food for training on can be given. If this plan be judiciously followed, the dog may towards the finish be having about equal parts meat and biscuits. Two meals a day are, as a rule, best, and regularity is of great importance.

Exercise

It is imperative that, whilst thus highly fed, the dog should be regularly exercised - some will require clothing when having walking exercise, and especially if it is necessary to take off excess of fat - whatever kind of exercise is given, whether walking with a horse or in slipping them for spurts, it should be regular, and managed to suit the strength of the dog - of course, with some breeds this is unnecessary. These remarks are designed to assist those who already have mastered the elements of dog management. The exercise should always be given before feeding, and immediately on the return to the kennel the process of grooming should be undertaken.

Grooming

This is far more important than many people suppose. It is not merely for cleanliness, although that in itself is much, for dirt is, in all forms, as injurious to health as it is offensive to the senses; but judicious grooming not only brightens the coat, giving to it a lustre additional to that of health, but it develops the muscles, and thereby improves the form.

In long coated dogs an ordinary stable dandy brush suits in some, in others the metallic brushes, specially designed for the kennel by Messrs. Ashworth, of Manchester, answer best. In smooth coated dogs Dine-ford's hound glove answers well, but even the old fashioned hard straw swab works wonders if there be patience and elbow grease behind it. It is very important that the friction be applied along the line of the muscles; the groom must not, for instance, rub down the top of the dog's back, but along each side of the spine, right from occiput to stern, and particularly at the loin where bands of sinews connect the hindquarters with the trunk.

Washing

When this is necessary is should be done with consideration. The water should be not more than tepid. Soda, potash, or any strong alkali should be avoided, as they rob the coat of its natural yelk. Carbolic acid soaps, too, make the coat harsh and dry.

The best water softener and cleanser for our purpose is Hudson's extract of soap, sold by grocers in 1d. packets, and by far the best soap yet introduced is the dog soap, made by Spratts patent, it is equal in quailty to a toilet soap, is non-poisonous to animals, yet a perfect insecticide, killing fleas, lice, and ticks instantly, and being colourless, or nearly so, is far more suitable for washing white dogs than others.

In cases where the hair has become matted it will be easier combed out when saturated with water.

Always finish by thoroughly rinsing in clear water with the chill taken off, and in the case of white dogs if the water is tinged with indigo blue it improves their appearance.

Drying should be most thorough. In the case of large dogs those who can let them have a roll among clean straw will do well to do so, but small pets should be hand dried, before a fire or in the sun.

Putting The Polish On

After all has been done it will be found that dogs, like children, are at war with artificial smartness, or that at the last moment, to ensure that the work of the past has not been spoiled, just before showing-, the dog should be looked over, brushed, combed, or wiped over, as the case requires; and, in fact, have the final polish put on.

Faking

I do not know how this word came into kennel use; its very existence in connection with dogs shows it is a disgrace to us.

I am disposed to think it was first applied to the cutting the cartilage of fox terriers' ears, so as to give them the desired set or fold, and Dr. Ogilvie's definition of the word is in that sense. The word now, however, has in kennel circles a wider application, and Pierce Egan's meaning of the word, as given in his slang dictionary, is, unfortunately, the correct one, when the word is used in reference to the "tricks of the ring," namely, to cheat or swindle.

Unfortunately it has not yet been defined what is to be considered "faking," and what legitimate preparation for exhibition. I cannot for the life of me see why a fox terrier man may not make an incision in his dog's ear, if a bull terrier man may cut three parts of his dog's ear away, the object of both being to artificially improve the appearance. Again, if shaving or trimming with scissors is permissible in one breed, why should not the cutting out of a piece of white from the chest of a black spaniel be so also ?

I am opposed to all such practices, and I cannot help thinking that the Kennel Club, who have taken upon themselves the welfare and guidance of canine matters in this country, should find it among their most urgent duties to define faking; and, as far as their power and influence extends, put laws against these malpractices in force. That is supposing the Kennel Club to be in earnest about anything more than their own interests, which, however, their conduct of canine matters often leads me to doubt.

Bull terriers and others are clipped, trimmed, and shaved. I have even seen the whiskers shaved off a fox terrier. Fox terriers, and sometimes other dogs, have an ear with an awkward conque let down with the knife or the needle.

Bedlington terriers have the rough hair on their faces, and sometimes elsewhere, pulled out. Black and tans are done with lampblack and oil. Yorkshire toys are not always innocent of plumbago; even dogs for field sports are subjected to such processes that their owners are ashamed to own to it, and the "faking," if faking it be, is always done sub rosa. I do not know that to use the watering can on the back of a curly retriever just before taking him in the ring can be called faking, but pulling the coat of the same dog is, and yet that practice is, if not approved, winked at by those in authority.

I have no wish to spread a knowledge of faking further than to ensure contempt for it, and its thorough condemnation by all good men and true, hoping that public opinion may ere long bring about reforms which those who have assumed the reins in canine matters seem to have no heart to undertake.

Sending To Show

Having made your entry you will in due course have received address label and a metal number with instructions what to do with them.

Let these instructions be obeyed to the smallest minutiae, or you may give the show authorities unnecessary trouble, and yourself also.

Basket Or Box

The comfort of the dog in transit may considerably affect his chances of winning. A close box without efficient means for the admission of fresh air and the emission of that which has been consumed and altered in process of respiration is sure to cause illness, if not death, a plain sided box with a few holes bored in it does not do, many instances of suffocation have occurred through this, or through packing two in a box only big enough for one. This is false economy, for if suffocation escapes the dogs, one is almost sure to suffer, and the want of sufficient air, together with the excitement of the journey, not unfrequently brings on a sudden attack of diarrhoea. Give space commensurate with the size of the animals, and provide air in like ratio. If your box is flat topped have ventilation secured by square pieces cut out of top and sides, and over these strong iron rods bent outwards, so that nothing placed on or against it can lie flush, and prevent ingress of air. Have strong handles to the box, it is a convenience to railway porters, and removes the temptation to indulge in what appears to be a natural tendency in them, viz., to turn everything they handle upside down, whether it contain a live creature or not.

Baskets, because of their lightness, are preferred for small dogs, but if used for terriers they should be lined inside with perforated zino, or they will seldom last a journey.

In The Ring

It is the right and duty of every one to show bis dog before the judge to the best possible advantage, but nothing is gained by forcing a dog on the judge's attention obtrusively; often the reverse effect is the consequence. It is a great advantage with most dogs to be led by those they know, as it gives them confidence, and they show themselves better. All dogs intended to be shown should have been previously accustomed to be led, for if not the odds are great that they will resent it when in the ring, and by pulling back and wriggling about make it impossible for the judge to form a true opinion, and the dog's chance of winning is thereby lost.

Last of all, whatever the fiat of the judge, keep your temper. If you think the judge wrong, at least let him finish his work undisturbed either by your grumbling or by reasonable question. Your interest in the show may be over with the judging of a class, but the judge has to go on with his work class after class, and it is no more than just to him to let him finish his work undisturbed.