The worst complications to be feared are pneumonia and fits, both of which are a source of great mortality. The beginning of pneumonia is not easily detected, but if you notice a rise in temperature you should sound the lungs by placing the ear to the side, or, better still, by using a stethoscope, and if you hear a crackling with the breathing you may be satisfied as to what is the matter. In its more advanced stage there is much difficulty in breathing, and a distressing cough. Relief may be obtained by rubbing the sides and chest with turpentine or mustard oil, but you will do well to call in a vet. without delay. My own experience has been that the nervous system is most likely to become affected when the temperature remains elevated for any considerable period without showing any inclination to fall. A distemper fit is quite different from that of an epileptic nature, the main evidence being at first a slight twitching or champing of the jaws. The attacks become increasingly frequent until the patient begins to cry out most pitifully. For treatment, dissolve two drams of bromide of potassium in four ounces of water, and give from a tea-spoonful to a tablespoonful three times daily, according to the size of the dog. Chorea frequently follows fits, and is by no means an uncommon sequel to distemper, and should the attack be severe there is little hope of recovery. A mild case may be helped by a course of Easton's syrup, from ten to thirty drops being given thrice daily in water after feeding.

While upon this subject I may mention that once when I had an outbreak in my own kennels I asked a well-known physician if he could give me any tips, and he suggested injecting into the veins of the patient the blood from a dog that had just recovered. Unfortunately, having no dog that had got through the disease, I was not able to act upon this advice.

Next to distemper, worms must be accounted a plentiful source of trouble, especially among puppies, practically all of which suffer from these pests. There are several varieties of these parasites, but those most frequently met with are the round worm and the tape-worm, the former being commonly found in puppies. They are the cause of endless mischief, and when they are present you cannot expect a whelp to thrive. In sucking puppies worms may cause enteritis, while the host may also develop fits, or die of stoppage or perforation of the bowels. I have known a little charcoal in the milk act as a vermifuge with puppies just beginning to lap, but the safest and most efficacious remedy that I have tried for puppies between four and eight weeks old is the mixture recommended by "Ashmont" in Kennel Secrets. This is composed as follows: -

Wormseed oil, 16 drops; oil of turpentine, 2 drops; oil of anise, 16 drops; olive oil, 3 drachms; castor oil, 4 1/2 drachms. Administer early in the morning, in an equal quantity of milk, having first warmed the medicine slightly. For large or medium-sized puppies under six weeks give half a teaspoonful, and double the dose from the sixth to the eighth week. If the physic has not acted in an hour's time, a teaspoonful of castor oil in warm milk will assist it. The toy breeds being delicate, not more than half the above dose should suffice for them. A simpler remedy, though I have not always found it act as well, is half a grain of santonine in a teaspoonful of castor oil for terrier size puppies about the sixth week, and double quantity for one of the larger breeds. The quantity may also be doubled after the tenth week. Between the third and fourth month I have used a level teaspoonful of powdered areca nut, combined with one or two grains of santonine. This should always be administered in the early morning, before a meal. The puppy should be fasted at least twelve hours. The smaller breeds are better with only half a teaspoonful of the areca nut and one grain of santonine. Follow in an hour with castor oil, and a little warm milk will also be helpful. The easiest way of giving this medicine is to mix it with a small quantity of dripping or butter, and then smear it on the tongue. This in my experience is much more satisfactory than pouring it down with milk or pushing a ball down the throat, and the puppy is not nearly as likely to vomit. The same rule is applicable to adults. As areca nut loses its virtue after it has been powdered it is better to grate it freshly on a nutmeg-grater, although I admit that this is a tedious process. For reducing a quantity to powder a coffee machine is handier than anything I know, the nut first being broken with a hammer.

Adult dogs should be treated several times a year for intestinal parasites, even though their presence may not be apparent. The dose of areca nut is, roughly, a grain for every pound the dog weighs, though I do not think more than 100 grains necessary even for big dogs. Add two to five grains of santonine, according to the size of the animal, and fast for twenty-four hours, following up in an hour's time with castor oil. As the whole of the worms may not be expelled at the first time of asking it is well to repeat the dose in about a week. Many of the well-known specialists for canine medicines put up worm balls, which are quite efficacious if you do not want the bother of mixing your own physic.

The presence of tape-worm is recognisable by the small segments, rather over half an inch long, which come away in the excreta.