34. Other things being equal, the most important thing then that you can do to insure the successful wintering of bees, is to afford them ample protection against the cold winter winds. The wind reduces the temperature rapidly in the hive because moving air currents draw out the warm air. Wind blowing against the hive will cool it rapidly because it tends to evaporate the moisture in the hive faster than it should be evaporated. You will realize how wind may cool a beehive too rapidly if you compare the simple method used by the Indian to find out from which direction the wind was blowing when it was too mild to tell offhand. The Indian used to moisten his fingers in his mouth, and then hold up his hand and turn around, deciding upon the direction of the wind by telling which way he had faced when his hand felt coolest. You can see the effect of wind on an unprotected beehive in which the bees are giving off moisture as they consume honey, just as your breath carries moisture on a cold morning outdoors. Therefore we consider wind protection the most important feature of successfully wintering bees outdoors.

35. In the previous chapter we have given the results that Dr. J. H. Merrill, formerly of the Kansas Agricultural College, worked out to arrive at this decision. We have also suggested various forms of windbreaks. You can go further in this connection by so protecting your bees against mere cold, that you also afford protection against the wind. For instance, some beekeepers place their bees inside of a wooden packing case in winter time. Many others wrap the hives in many thicknesses of newspaper and then wrap each hive outside of that in waterproof, windtight, building paper. So keep in mind that while such paper really tends to insulate the hive and keep the heat in it from escaping too rapidly, it at the same time prevents the wind from striking the hive directly. This prevents the loss of heat faster than can be produced by the bees. It is an important point in locating a bee yard, to place it in such a position that there will be a natural windbreak, such as trees or high shrubs, on the west and north sides. In many northern localities evergreen trees are used for this and they are ideal. For want of anything better, the type of slatted fence used along highways in winter to prevent the drifting of snow, would help materially for wind protection.

36. A great many beekeepers ask for a "rule of thumb" by which they may tell whether or not they should winter outdoors or in cellars. No such rule can be laid down, as mere northern latitude does not always mean the coldest winter weather. Perhaps a safe rule is that south of 40° latitude, bees may always be successfully wintered outdoors with proper care, and that north of that latitude, either in the cellar or outdoors, provided the right protection is available in either case. We might add to this that no one should attempt wintering bees in a cellar unless the cellar temperature can be kept within a few degrees of 50° F. throughout the winter. The temperature should never go below 45° for any length of time in a good bee cellar, and the cellar should be reasonably dry and ventilated in such a way that cold air currents are not created. Excess moisture must be carried off fast enough so that it does not mold the combs and inside walls of the hive, in spite of the efforts of the bees. A good bee cellar is dark.

37. Many beekeepers living south of latitude 40 are inclined to think that their winters are so mild that no form of winter protection is needed. This comes from a lack of acquaintance with actual winter conditions in their own locality. Many of us are prone to think that the temperatures are so-and-so, without looking up Weather Bureau records to find out. As described in "Beekeeping in the South," the authors remember quite well the sensation that was created at a meeting of the Kentucky Beekeepers' Association, when the Hon. R. P. Dietzman of Louisville proved by U. S. Weather Bureau records in the Louisville Office that in the previous year there were only 69 consecutive days when the temperature did not go below 57° F. Many Kentucky beekeepers, not realizing that their bees had so often to combat low temperatures, had not been giving them any winter protection. Their losses were more than they should have been and the consequent production of honey by these weakened colonies the next year was less than it should have been. Don't guess as to whether or not you should pack in your locality. Write the nearest office of the U. S. Weather Bureau. Find out what months the temperature goes below 57° F. enough times in your locality to warrant experimenting with more protection than you have been giving. Satisfy yourself of its worth.

38. You have seen how bees in consuming honey to make heat, will also create moisture. This is thrown off from their bodies in somewhat the same way as moisture is carried out in your breath. If the bees are amply protected against cold and wind, they will consume a much smaller quantity of honey than otherwise, and consequently, will not produce so much excess moisture or water vapor. The undesirable feature of water vapor produced in excess quantities, is that it rises with the warm air inside the hive until it reaches the top of the hive. If the hive is not amply protected against wind and cold, the moisture vapor condenses into water and drops back onto the bees below. The water dropping back on the bees makes them uncomfortable, excites them and causes them to consume more honey. Excess moisture within the hive causes that condition which is so frequently found in spring where combs are spotted with greenish mold, sometimes to such an extent that the bees may not clean this mold off readily.